fwHENIWASAGIRL 
^ IN MEXICO 

MERCEDES GODOY 





Class _Fj_%l51 
Book. 



^iyuSo 



GqpyriglrtM*- 



COFIRfGHT DEPOSm 



WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
IN MEXICO 



CHILDREN OF OTHER LANDS BOOKS 

Independent Volumes With Characteristic Illus- 
trations and Cover Designs 12 mo Cloth 
Price of each Volume, net, 75 cts. 

There are many books about the children of other coiin- 
tries, but no other group Uke this, with each volume written 
by one who has lived the foreign child Ufe described, and 
learned from subsequent experience in this coxmtry how to 
tell it in a way attractive to American children — and in fact 
to Americans of any age. 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN CHINA 

By Yan Phou Lee 

WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN ITALY 

By Marietta Ambrosi 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN JAPAN 

By Sakae Shioya 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN GREECE 

By George Demetrios 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN PALESTINE 

By Mousa J. Kaleel 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN BELGIUM 

By Robert Jonckheere 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN RUSSIA 

By Vladimir De Bogory Mokrievitcii 

WHEN I WAS A BOY IN ROUMANIA 

By Dr. J. S. Van Teslaar 

WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN HOLLAND 

By Cornelia De Groot 

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. 
BOSTON 




\\Uy>L^a^ptt^ 



^a-zyCo^. 



WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
IN MEXICO 



BY 



MERCEDES GODOY 



ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 




BOSTON 
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. 



Published, April, 19 19 



Copyright, 1919, 
By Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. 



All Rights Reserved 
When I Was a Girl in Mexico 



APR 24 1919 



BERWIClt & SMITH CO. 

Norwood, Mass. 

U. S. A. 



©CI.A525231 




CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 
I. 


My Birthplace .... 


PAGE 
9 


II. 


The First Years of My Life . 


14 


III. 


Amusements During Childhood 


21 


IV. 


Productions of Mexico . 


28 


V. 


Parks, Drives, and Flowers 


33 


VI. 


Sundays and Holidays 


42 


VII. 


Holy Week, Corpus Christi, St. 
John's Day, and Mexican In- 
dependence Day . 


48 


VIII. 


Christmas Time 


56 


IX. 


The Streets in Mexico City . 


61 


X. 


Beautiful Chapultepec . 


70 


XI. 


The Floating Gardens and 
ViGA Canal .... 


n 


XII. 


By Rail in Mexico . 


79 


XIII. 


In Guatemala, and Back to 
Mexico 


86 


XIV. 


Residing and Studying in Wash- 
ington, D. C 

5 


94 



CONTENTS 



XV. The Launching of Mexican 

War-Ships . . . .100 

XVI. The Buffalo Exposition. Pres- 
ident McKinley's Assassina- 
tion 104 

XVII. The Second Pan-American Con- 
ference 109 

XVIII. InHabana . . . .118 

XIX. The Mexican Centennial . .123 

XX. Mexican Home Life. Return 

to Washington . . .133 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Mercedes Godoy .... Frontispiece ^ 

FACING PAGE 

The National Library . . . . . 20 ^^ 

"Zocalo" or Central Square, and "Portales" 

(Arcades) 30 •" 

Monument of Mexican Independence . .36 

" El Arbol de la Noche Trieste " (The Tree of 

the Sad Night) 38 

The Cathedral in Mexico City ... 46 

A Street in the New Residential Section of Mex- 
ico City 64 ' 

Chapultepec Castle and Lake . . . . 72 / 

The Popocatepetl 80 ^ 

The Ixtaccihuatl 80 

The Principal Interior Courtyard of the Hotel 

Iturbide iio 

San Francisco Street, Mexico City . . .128 

Montezuma on his Throne . . , .132 

Aztec Warriors . . , . . .132 



WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
IN MEXICO 

CHAPTER I 

MY BIRTHPLACE 

There in a street in Mexico City, 
formerly called " Calle de San Angel " 
(Angel Street), and now named " Calle Is- 
abel la Catolica," after the renowned 
Queen Isabella of Spain. There at No. 2, 
which was a large stone house with the 
usual exterior balconies and interior 
court-yards of Mexican residences, I was 
born. This house was half a block from 
the National Library, the student's de- 
light, and not far from the " Portales '^ or 
Arcades, which are full of toys and candy- 
stands, the children's delight. 

Of course I know little about that 
9 



10 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO ' 

house, or how I spent my babyhood there, 
as when I was a few weeks old we went 
to live in San Juan de Letran Street. 
We resided there several years. Opposite 
to this house was a fashionable church, 
Santa Brlgida, where many weddings and 
christenings took place, though I was 
baptized at the grand Cathedral. Since 
then I have attended many marriage cer- 
emonies in Mexican churches, and I can 
ssly that the altars and interior are always 
beautifully decorated with flowers arid 
plants and the attendance is always large. 
These ceremonies generally take place in 
the mornings. At the christenings the 
godfather is usually pestered by the chil- 
dren who lustily cry after him, following 
his carriage, and asking for their " bolo," 
a 9 mall piece of paoney wliich it is cus- 
tomary to give to the little urchins. ' 
As it is the custom in Mexico, I had 
my " nana," or nurse, though she was not 
very young, but rather old, who took me 
everywhere, even when accompanying 



MY BIB THPLA GE 11 

my parents. These " nanas " are very 
faithful and obliging, and usually take 
great liking to the children under their 
care. This devotion is shown vividly 
when a child is sick, as the nurse will not 
leave it for one moment and is ever 
ready to attend to its wants. The love 
they bear to the children in their care 
continues when these children grow up, 
and in many families you may find 
" nanas " who keep their devotion and 
remain for many years attached to the 
household and to the young men or 
women whose wants they have attended 
to since babyhood. It is a pity that the 
type of such kind and devoted " nanas " 
is fast tending to disappear. 

One of the defects that these " nanas " 
have is that they are in the habit of tell- 
ing children ghost stories, which fre- 
quently terrify, and are apt to make the 
little ones at times nervous and restless. 
One of their favorite ways of intimidating 
the children is to tell them that the 



12 WHEN I WAS A OIRL IN MEXICO 

*' COCO " is coming. This " coco '' is 
some imaginary being that is supposed 
to have for its sole purpose on earth the 
frightening and even punishing of bad 
children. But the principal ghost story 
that these " nanas " are very apt to tell 
the little ones under their charge is that 
of the " llorona " or weeping woman, who 
is supposed to be a female who is ex- 
piating some crime or grieving over some 
misfortune which has befallen her and is 
going around wailing, especially in the 
night-time and in very dark places. The 
story of the " llorona " is one that is very 
popular among the lower classes in 
Mexico ; its origin is said by some to go 
as far back as the period when the Span- 
iards ruled in this country, and time 
does not seem to wipe out nor diminish 
the popularity of the superstitious fear 
of that wailing and weeping female ghost 
on the part of a great number of the more 
ignorant people and many of the children 
in all parts of the Republic. 



MY BIB THPLA GE 13 

Every time I went back to Mexico 
City I used to pass by '' Calle del Angel " 
and " Calle de San Juan de Letran/' so 
that the house where I was born and that 
in which I spent my babyhood are indeli- 
bly impressed on my mind, and I shall 
always have vivid recollections of them. 



CHAPTER II 

THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 

It is a difficult task to relate the events 
of the first years of one's life, as in real- 
ity one has no recollection of those first 
years, when a tiny baby or child, but 
knows them only from hearsay and 
things told so many times by elders that 
gradually they seem really remembered 
and pictured most vividly in one's 
mind. 

We resided at that time for several 
years in Mexico City. My brother who 
preceded me and the one who came after 
were both born in that city. My parents 
often made trips to the interior of the 
Republic and also to the United States, 
principally to San Francisco, where my 
mother's parents lived. I can remember 
14 



THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 15 

vagijely the large house where my grand- 
parents lived and where my mother and 
father were married. It had a pretty 
garden with flowers, which I loved to 
pick. I also liked to sit out there in the 
garden with my grandfather and listen to 
the stories that he told me. We went 
back there in later years several times, 
the last time being a few months before 
the terrible earthquake and fire of 1906 
which nearly destroyed the whole city. 
They say it has changed very much and 
is greatly improved, though I liked it 
and admired it as it was before, with its 
hilly and busy commercial streets, and 
lovely residential sections and parks. 

So it was that since a baby I have been 
traveling frequently and I have always 
enjoyed it, as it is most interesting and 
instructive. The defect one acquires is 
restlessness when remaining too long in 
the same place or city, missing the change 
of scenery, friends, and habits. Never- 
theless traveling in different countries 



16 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

and visiting the various cities is very 
beneficial to the young and old, for in 
that way they become acquainted with 
other nationalities, customs, and lan- 
guages, and see personally many interest- 
ing and historical places or things. 

I was a very delicate baby and had in- 
termittent fevers when about two years 
old, so the doctor prescribed a change of 
climate and my parents took me to 
Toluca, a pretty little town near the capi- 
tal. From there we went to San Antonio, 
Texas, where my father was sent as Mex- 
ico's representative to the Exposition at 
that city. Of course I cannot remember 
anything about my stay in these places, 
but a few years later we revisited these 
two cities. Toluca is a very clean city 
and is high up on the mountains. The 
climate is colder than in Mexico City. 
All along the road from the capital the 
scenery is very picturesque and interest- 
ing, though not as beautiful as that of 
Vera Cruz, which I will describe in an- 



THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 17 

other chapter later on. The scenery of 
Toluca, however, is well worth seeing, 
especially for those who love nature's 
beauties. San Antonio, Texas, I found 
to be an attractive city. Being so near 
Mexico it is generally full of Mexican 
families, and we have seen several of our 
friends while there. The only drawback 
I found was the climate, as it seemed very 
hot most of the time. 

When I was a little girl nearly all the 
children in Mexico, especially girls, went 
to private schools or had teachers at 
home, either because they considered that 
the public schools were deficient or be- 
cause their parents did not care to have 
them mingle with the lower classes. 
The girls did not pursue studies that 
would fit them for any professional 
career, but no doubt this has changed 
lately, as women in Mexico, as in all 
parts of the world, are holding more 
positions and learning how to support 
themselves. 



18 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

Since then the public schools have 
improved and increased greatly, so 
that larger numbers of children of the 
well-to-do or middle classes attend 
them. 

The Mexican public schools are similar 
to those in the United States, consisting 
of primaries, high schools or preparatory 
schools, and institutions to train students 
to become teachers, and members of other 
professions, as medicine, law, engineer- 
ing, etc. 

Here I may add that since I was a little 
girl, the most approved methods of teach- 
ing have been introduced and adopted, 
and at present some of the private educa- 
tional institutions in Mexico can afford 
to children the same facilities that are 
given them in other countries. Still, 
owing to the desire of acquiring the Eng- 
lish language and of training the children 
along active lines and pursuits, many of 
those who can afford to do so send their 
shildren to the United States, especially 



THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 19 

the boys for engineering and other scien- 
tific studies. Families residing in the 
States of Sonora, Sinaloa, and other 
Western States of Mexico are apt to send 
their children to educational institutions 
in California and the other Pacific Coast 
States, while those residing in other parts 
of the Republic send them for that pur- 
pose to New York, Massachusetts, and 
other parts of the United States, and 
some of them to the city of Washington. 
In this way the English language has 
been fostered in Mexico and children 
nowadays are taught English instead of 
French as in former years. 

One of the distinguishing characteris- 
tics of Mexican boys and girls is their 
liking for literature, and from an early 
age they show a fondness for reading 
books by ancient and modern authors of 
Spain, their mother country, as well as by 
English and French writers. A great 
many have read extensively the works of 
American authors, some of their favoriteo 



20 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

being Washington Irving, Prescott, Long- 
fellow, and Poe, and one finds a great 
number of writers and poets, both young 
and old, in Mexico. 




San Francisco Street, Mexico City. 
The principal street, leading to the National Palace and Cathedral. 




The Nation Aii Library. 

Here are large collections of books and manuscripts referring to Mexi- 
can History and many rare volumes. 



CHAPTER III 

AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 

My favorite amusement when I was a 
little girl, and until I was in my teens, 
was to play with dolls, large and small, 
and even paper dolls. These I would 
cut out from fashion books and maga- 
zines, and some I had were made in 
Mexico of stiff paper or cardboard. My 
largest doll had lovely blond curly hair 
and porcelain hands, of which I was very 
proud. One day, however, while play- 
ing with it in our yard, one of my older 
brothers who was riding on his bicycle 
accidentally knocked both the doll and 
me down. This I remember grieved me 
very much, as the dolFs head was broken 
in many pieces, and, as most children do, 
I cried so much that my mother had to 
buy another new head, which to me 
21 



22 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

never seemed as pretty as the old one. 
My doll-house had a great assortment of 
furniture, some made by the Indians in 
Mexico. They make furniture in all 
sizes, also large and tiny dishes out of 
earthenware, and the prisoners make 
quaint toy furniture of quills and wood 
and put it together with pins. They 
also carve figures in cocoanuts, and from 
cherry and apricot stones they make tiny 
baskets and monkeys ; all this is done 
with any ordinary penknife. 

Other amusements of Mexican children 
which my brothers and I enjoyed were 
the same that are found here in the 
United States. We had hide-and-go- 
seek, blind man's buff, called '* gallina 
ciega " (blind chicken), and kite-flying in 
the yard at home. This was for boys, 
still sometimes girls flew kites, too. I 
used to enjoy helping my brothers make 
them, that is pasting the tissue-paper on 
the frame or tying rags together to make 
the long tail. 



AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 23 

I also loved to read, though at that time 
having but a small number of attractive 
books in comparison with the great vari- 
ety to be found in the United States. Of 
course the " Arabian Nights," " Robinson 
Crusoe," whose companion Friday is 
called in the Spanish version ''Domingo " 
(Sunday), and other books, too, as the 
usual fairy tales, and stories of " Blue 
Beard," " Cinderella," etc., were popular 
among us Mexican children. 

During rainy days I would read these 
books or play dominoes or checkers 
with my brothers, and on bright sunny 
days we went with our " nanas " to the 
parks or squares to hear the band play 
and I would roll a hoop, or jump rope, or 
amuse myself in some other active way. 
Very few baby-carriages were seen at 
these parks or on the streets, as the 
nurses always carried the babies in their 
arms. Servants were to be had at very 
low wages, so a father or mother was 
seldom seen carrying a baby. This was 



24 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

true even among people in moderate cir- 
cumstances or of the middle classes, be- 
cause they always had a nurse to attend 
to the children. 

Another game that is so popular in the 
United States among schoolgirls, " Jack- 
stones," is also played by Mexican chil- 
dren, both boys and girls, but there they 
use apricot stones instead. 

A typical toy of Mexico is the 
" titere," which is like a marionette. 
This is a figure made of clay, its joints 
of rags, and dressed up to represent a 
man, woman, child, soldier, policeman, 
in fact all kinds of people. They are 
generally from six to ten inches high, 
although some that are used in the real 
" titere " theatres are quite large. These 
" titeres " have threads attached to their 
hands, feet, and body, and by pulling 
these threads one can manipulate them, 
so as to make them walk, dance, and 
jump about. My brothers had a toy 
theatre with scenery, and our servant 



AMUSEMENTS DURING GEILDUOOD 25 

boy or " mozo " amused us by making 
the " titeres " act, representing comical 
and dramatic acts and also musical ones. 
He would manipulate the strings from 
above and at the same time talk or sing, 
and the " titeres " appeared to us chil- 
dren as real actors and dancers. This 
would of course amuse us very much 
and keep us quiet for hours in our play- 
room. 

Among other toys for girls, made by 
the Indians, are large and small stoves 
and dishes of earthenware, to imitate the 
ones used in Mexico. They also make 
very large and small dolls, all of rags, the 
features embroidered to show the eyes, 
mouth, nose, and ears. These dolls they 
usually dress up in Indian costumes of 
bright colors, and their hair, made out 
of black wool, they braid and leave hang- 
ing down their backs, as most Indian 
girls wear it. Children like these dolls, 
because they never break and can be 
thrown or dropped and nothing happens 



26 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

to them. They are indeed a practical 
doll, and some are very pretty and very 
well made. 

At Cuernavaca, a pretty town not far 
from the city of Mexico, they make the 
smallest rag-dolls in the world. Some 
are only one-fourth of an inch in height, 
and the wonder is that being so tiny, 
every feature and all the different parts 
of the body are perfect and in proportion. 
They dress them up, and some cos- 
tumes are very elaborate. A well-known 
woman who makes those dolls in Cuer- 
navaca was getting blind from the strain 
on her eyesight, from making such very 
small dolls. 

Another tiny toy or article made by 
Mexican Indians is a dressed-up flea. It 
does not seem possible, but it certainly is 
the truth, as we have several that we 
bought in Mexico. They have to be seen 
through a magnifying-glass to appreciate 
the work and patience it must take to 
prepare them. The dead fleas stand in 



AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 27 

tiny paper boxes, and are each dressed in 
various colors and styles. 

Even when I was a little girl I was 
fond of going to the theatre, but the cir- 
cus did not attract my attention as it did 
that of other children. I remember that 
I liked to go to the " Zarzuelas " or 
Spanish musical comedies, some of them 
being one-act plays, given at " tandas," 
which are performances that last about 
one hour, so that three or four can be 
given in one afternoon or evening. The 
Spanish music, which is very tuneful and 
catchy and is different from any other, 
has become very popular in Mexico. I 
must add that in my country there are 
very good musical composers, whom I 
have already referred to. 

The children there like to sing the 
popular tunes or songs, some of which 
like '' Los Enanos " (The Dwarfs), " El 
Butaquito " (The Little Stool) and others 
are by unknown authors, but very 
popular with all classes. 



CHAPTER IV 

PRODUCTIONS OF MEXICO 

Owing to the diversity of climates in 
various portions of the Republic, espe- 
cially near the capital, there is a very 
large assortment of fruits and vegetables 
to be found for sale in the markets and 
fruit-stands at the capital. Some of these 
are little known in the United States, 
and when sold here bring high prices. I 
refer particularly to the fruits of tropical 
climates, which are so well liked by chil- 
dren in Mexico, such as the " tuna " 
(prickly pear), the " zapote " of various 
kinds, the " mamey " and the'" aguacate " 
or alligator pear, so well known to foreign- 
ers. There is also a great variety of 
fruits from cold climates, like those 
found in the United States. The straw- 
28 



PRODUCTIONS OF MEXICO 29 

berries are very large in size and very 
sweet. 

On account of these varying climates, 
with which few countries are gifted, 
Mexico's agricultural productions are 
very numerous, and the same is true of 
minerals. 

When I was a little girl, I remember 
very well that every one spoke of the 
great riches in minerals, especially gold 
and silver. Since then they have dis- 
covered and exploited, as is well known, 
numerous oil-wells which have given 
fabulous returns, especially around the 
districts of >,Tampico. Although I have 
never visited this port, still I have heard 
a great deal of talk about it, as it is my 
father's birthplace. 

Among the productive industries in 
the central plateau where the city of 
Mexico is situated is the manufacture 
of " pulque," a national beverage made 
from the Mexican agave or prickly-pear 
plant. It is largely sold in the capital 



30 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

and neighboring districts, and though it 
is highly intoxicating and consequently 
injurious, it is considered to have some 
medicinal properties, and therefore is used 
in very moderate quantities by some of 
the middle classes. Still, in the main it 
is as harmful as is whiskey in the United 
States, but it is said that large quantities 
of it have to be taken before a person is 
visibly affected by drinking it. 

There are some cooling drinks of which 
both the children and adults are fond, 
and which are somewhat peculiar to the 
country, such as " orchata," made from 
the seeds of the canteloupe, and ** chia," 
made from some typical seed of Mexico. 
These drinks are usually sold in stands 
to be found in the " Portales " in the 
Central Square, or "Zocalo," and along 
some thoroughfares, especially whenever 
some public festivity is to be held. 

Although I have spoken already of the 
small industries, such as feather, silver, 
marble, wax, and rag articles made by 



^ 






^ 


WSm.-. a^g^ 


^ehbh^^ 


- -^Ir^^--- 


^^^i^^J 


^K 


ij' ir'ir"' . . ^ 


:i *l£^i|te^ 




iK^Ks8fll^^^'''*--j>i! 


^~^5ffiBa 


.^2^. .; i"^ 




T^ 


'm^^' 


& 








W^ 










•^ '^^fe^^W* 



*' ZocALO " OR Central Square, and "Portales" (Arcades). 

The centre of Mexico City from which all tramways start, and where 

the National Palace and Cathedral are situated. 




A Street in the Xew Residential Section of Mexico City. 

One of the leading streets in Colonia Juarez, which is among the recently 
huilt sections of the capital of Mexico. 



rnODUGTIONS OF MEXICO 31 

the Indians and which prove so attract- 
ive to tourists, I must again make refer- 
ence to the great merit and variety of the 
feather and silver work, some of which 
is exceedingly artistic and unique. Of 
course the smaller articles in the form of 
toys were those that attracted most the 
attention of the children, but as I grew 
up I came to appreciate the artistic value 
of the more pretentious and highly 
wrought pieces in these branches of in- 
dustry. Not only are birds and animals 
represented by means of feathers artistic- 
ally and realistically pasted and arranged 
on cards and plaques, but the Indian 
artists elaborate landscapes and views of 
buildings, all made up of feathers of dif- 
ferent hues and colors, in this way mak- 
ing striking and artistic pictures, which 
command good prices. 

As far as the filigree or silver work is 
concerned, I do not think there is any 
better or more artistic to be found, ex- 
cepting in Italy, there being a striking 



32 WHEN I WAS A QIRL IN MEXICO 

similarity between some of the Mexican 
and some of the Italian silver filigree 
work. 

Other articles made by the Indian 
women are all kinds of hand embroidery 
and drawn-work on linen, silk, and cot- 
ton. Some of this work is most exquisite 
and fine, made up in handkerchiefs, 
scarfs, collars, dresses, etc. 



CHAPTER V 

PARKS, DRIVES, AND FLOWERS 

The principal park in the center of 
Mexico City is the " Alameda,'' extend- 
ing several blocks in length and width. 
It is always green, full of flowers and 
trees, and has various fountains, the cen- 
tral one being very large and artistic. 
It was named " Alameda " because it 
originally consisted mostly of a large 
group of " alamos " or elm-trees. 

There the children play, run, and 
amuse themselves, going with their 
" nanas '' or nurses. It is always full of 
little ones, and every day my brothers 
and I went there to play with other little 
friends, being well taken care of by our 
"nanas.'' We used to love to buy 
balloons and play ball, jump, and run. 

A few blocks away from the Alameda 
33 



34 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

the beautiful drive " Paseo de la Re- 
forma " begins, which leads to Chapul- 
tepec. For quite a number of blocks 
there are houses on either side of that 
driveway; some of the very wealthy 
families reside in splendid modern houses, 
almost palaces. The driveway is edged 
on both sides with trees and lovely 
flower-gardens, an automobile drive and 
bridle-path extending all the way to 
Chapultepec. 

At the beginning of the Paseo de la 
Reforma is a very large bronze statue 
of Charles IV of Spain, which is con- 
sidered a splendid work of art, the 
sculptor being a Mexican, Manuel Tolsa. 
Along the drive at intervals are several 
artistic and interesting monuments com- 
memorative of important epochs of the 
history of Mexico. 

The first one is that of Columbus on 
one of the principal circles. The great 
navigator appears standing in an impos- 
ing attitude, and around the lower 



PARKS, DRIVE Sy AND FLOWERS 35 

pedestal of the monument are some of 
the men who aided him in his great 
enterprise. The second monument, also 
in the center of a circle, is that of 
Cuauhtemoc. He was the last Aztec 
ruler who struggled courageously against 
the Spanish conquerors. It is said that 
when he was being tortured with hot 
irons at his feet, to force him to say 
where the treasures were concealed, one 
of his companions who also was being 
tortured began to complain most pit- 
eously. Cuauhtemoc answering him 
bravely said, ** Do you think that I am 
in a bed of roses ? " 

Nearing Chapultepec is the most im- 
posing and artistic monument, which 
was unveiled during the Centennial 
celebrations in 1910. It is the monu- 
ment of Independence, the design con- 
sisting of statues of Mexican heroes, with 
allegorical figures surrounding the base, 
while on the top of this high column is a 
huge Angel of Peace, covered with very 



36 WEEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

fine gilt, which can be seen at a great 
distance. Another statue dedicated dur- 
ing these celebrations is at the Alameda, 
erected in memory of the great President 
Benito Juarez. The last three monu- 
ments and statues were made by different 
well-known Mexican sculptors, and are 
all of very original and artistic design. 

I may add that also along the Paseo de 
la Reforma on either side are small 
statues, some of bronze, stone, or marble, 
placed on pedestals and representing 
some of the heroes of Mexican independ- 
ence. They were erected by the govern- 
ments of the States of the Republic, each 
of them having donated two of such 
statues. 

The flower market "Mercado de 
Flores" is located at one end of the 
"Zocalo" or Central Square where the 
National Palace, Cathedral, and other 
public buildings are situated. It is 
always full of flowers in the mornings, 
but by afternoon they are mostly sold. 



m\ 




Monument of Mexican Independence. 

This magnificent monument was dedicated in Mexico City during the 
Centennial festivities in 1910. 



PARKS, DRIVES, AND FLOWERS 37 

These iflowers are nearly all made up by 
the sellers into artistic shapes, as hearts, 
stars, moons, baskets, and also wreaths 
and crosses for the dead. These sellers 
know immediately who are foreigners 
and ask them very high prices, but if 
one offers them half or less in an insistent 
manner, they finally consent. Flowers 
are wonderfully beautiful, bountiful, and 
very cheap, if you know how to bargain 
with these venders. 

On saints' days, commemorated by the 
church, especially on those of popular- 
named saints, and on All Souls' Day, the 
flower market is crowded and soon all 
the flowers are sold. 

The " portales " or arcades on the other 
side of the Zocalo are, as I said before, 
full of stands with fruit, cakes, candies, 
candied fruit, specialties of the country, 
and all kinds of toys, mostly cheap ones. 
All of us children used to love to go to 
these portales and buy toys of various 
kinds. 



38 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

The suburbs are interesting to visit, as 
they are very typical. The houses gen- 
erally are surrounded by gardens, or are 
of the old Spanish architecture with 
interior court-yards and iron-barred win- 
dows. Some are very large and hand- 
some and are like the country homes of 
many people living in the city. They 
go to the suburbs to spend several months 
during the year. Other people live there 
all the time, and there are many less pre- 
tentious houses, and still some very small 
ones of the lower classes or Indians. 

Among the suburbs of Mexico City 
are Mixcoac, Tacubaya, Tacuba, and San 
Angel. At Tacuba stands the historic 
" Arbol de la Noche Triste '^ (Tree of the 
Sad Night), where it is said that Cortes 
wept on the night he had to leave Mexico 
City, after being driven away with great 
slaughter by the Aztecs. The tree is sur- 
rounded by an iron fence and has an ap- 
propriate inscription. 

At San Angel there is a well-known 




El Arbol de la No cue Triste. 

(The Tree of the Sad Night.) 

It is supposed that under this tree the Spanish Conqueror Hernan 
Cortes wept after his withdrawal from Mexico City. 



FAIiKSy DIUVES, AND FLO WEES 39 

club or inn, " San Angel Inn," where 
many go to dine and spend many pleas- 
ant hours. Once I went there to a large 
luncheon party and afterwards we danced 
until late that evening. We also walked 
around the lovely garden of this club 
and went sight-seeing around the town. 

The Peiion is a near-by resort or suburb 
and is very picturesque. There is a hotel 
and bathing establishment there, which 
at times is very well patronized, not only 
by the residents of Mexico City but by 
foreigners. The springs at this place are 
noted for their medicinal qualities. 

Another important and interesting 
suburb is Guadalupe. The Virgin of 
Guadalupe is the patron saint of Mexico. 
There is a well-known legend about her 
apparition. It is said that she appeared 
to an Indian, Juan Diego, who terribly 
frightened ran to tell it to the bishop, who 
of course did not believe him. The In- 
dian then returned for the second time to 
the same spot and the Virgin appeared 



40 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

again, and told him that this time the 
bishop would believe him. Her imprint 
was made on his cloak or " ayate." The 
bishop was then convinced, and as Juan 
Diego told him that the Virgin wanted a 
church erected on the spot where she ap- 
peared, a beautiful shrine was built, 
which now has been enlarged and is one 
of the best churches in the Republic. 
Its altar railings are of solid silver and it 
contains many other costly ornaments. 

Near this church is a well, the water of 
which is said to cure some diseases, and 
many people, mostly Indians, fill jars and 
bottles which they take home to use as a 
remedy. On a hill there is a small house, 
the walls of which are all covered with 
pieces of broken glass, of all colors, 
shapes, and sizes, making it look very 
quaint. On top of the hill is a cemetery 
where many of Mexico's illustrious men 
have been buried. Below in the square 
near the church may be seen many In- 
dian women making and selling tiny 



PARES, DRIVESy AND FLOWERS 41 

" tortillas " or cakes, made of ground 
fresh corn, which they grind in a 
" metate " made of stone with three stone 
supports and having a handle likewise 
made of stone. We children used to love 
to buy and eat the tortillas while still 
warm. 

Guadalupe is seldom omitted by the 
sight-seers as its legend and church are 
well known all over the country, and for 
this reason it is greatly visited by people 
of all classes and nationalities. I have 
several medals with the image of the Vir- 
gin of Guadalupe as well as souvenirs 
and photographs of the various places of 
interest, all these being very much sought 
by the sight-seers or tourists. 



CHAPTER VI 

SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 

Sundays and holidays are very lively 
and enjoyable in Mexico. They are the 
days of amusement and recreation for all 
classes. 

In the city of Mexico at the Alameda, 
the park I mentioned in the preceding 
chapter, where so many children are to 
be seen at play, is also crowded by elder 
people on these days. 

A military band plays in the morning 
until noon, and people promenade up 
and down along the principal pathway. 
This is covered with an awning to keep 
off the sun, and chairs are placed on 
either side, being obtained by paying a 
small amount. Those more fortunate 
ones who have automobiles or carriages 
4^ 



S UNDA YS AND HO LID A YS 43 

drive up and down San Francisco Street 
a regular parade, upon returning from 
the Paseo and Chapultepec. The women 
wear expensive and elaborate gowns and 
hats, a great many of which are imported 
from Europe, showing them off in this 
slow parade. Only three rows of ve- 
hicles can pass, as this is not one of the 
wide streets of Mexico City. 

In Chapultepec crowds are seen, morn- 
ing and afternoon, driving, walking, or 
sitting on the benches along the side- 
walk, listening to the lively music, as at 
each end there is generally a band play- 
ing. The afternoon crowds are naturally 
the larger. One always meets many 
friends, in fact those who live in that 
city permanently are kept busy bowing 
to their numerous acquaintances. 

Carriages are becoming scarce, for 
here, as in all countries of the world, the 
automobiles are taking their place ; but 
when they were still numerous it was 
said that the horses in Mexico City were 



U WREN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

indeed among the best and most splendid- 
looking to be seen in any of the impor- 
tant cities of the world. 

The lake situated in Chapultepec is like- 
wise full of pleasure-seekers in boats and 
canoes, more so on Sundays and holidays. 
Once we got up a party of quite a number 
of girls and boys and went to this lake 
to row very early in the morning at day- 
break, as the sun is very hot and burns 
greatly later on. Even then after rowing 
for several hours, we became sunburnt 
and heated. One feels it the more per- 
haps, because, strange to say, the shady 
sides of the streets or drives are quite 
cool, sometimes even cold. So in winter 
if one is chilly the best way to get nice 
and warm is to stand or sit in the sun for 
some time, if the house has no furnace 
or fireplaces, which few houses or build- 
ings have, as they are seldom needed. 
The winters are not severe as in the 
northern part of the Republic ; it almost 
never snows, though once it did and this 



SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 45 

created a great sensation and excitement 
among the population, especially those 
who never in their lives had seen it snow. 
It was only a slight snowfall and did not 
remain on the ground, but soon melted 
away; nevertheless it frightened many 
Indians. 

The holidays commemorating the dif- 
ferent saints are not legal holidays, so 
that public oflSces and stores remain open 
on such occasions ; still the churches ob- 
serve them, and also many families and 
even some business houses. Some of the 
principal holidays are those of St. Joseph, 
St. Francis, Virgin of Guadalupe, and the 
Immaculate Conception. Every one cele- 
brates his saint's day instead of his birth- 
day, and as these days are always well 
known by friends, it is the custom to 
send presents and flowers at such times, 
and we children received toys and other 
gifts. 

Each city district has its patron saint, 
for whom the church in that locality is 



46 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXIGO 

usually named. The day of this saint is 
celebrated by illuminating the streets and 
giving open-air concerts in the parks of 
that district, and stands are also erected 
on the streets where sweetmeats, cakes, 
fruit, and toys are sold. 

The principal and largest church in 
Mexico City is the Cathedral, situated, as 
I said before, on one side of the " Zocalo " 
or Central Square. It is a very hand- 
some and costly one, and has two very 
high towers and a cupola in the center, 
and was built several hundred years ago 
in the time of the Spaniards, but since 
then has been enlarged. It contains 
many altars and is divided into several 
sections in the interior. Of course on 
Sundays and holidays it holds more peo- 
ple than any other, being the largest and 
most important. Palm Sunday, which is 
well known, is the one preceding Easter, 
is duly solemnized in Mexico City, and 
the number of palms that on that day 
are blessed at the leading churches, 




CD 

§ I 

I = 
5 2 



0) 



SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 47 

especially at the Cathedral, is very great 
indeed. 

Each child generally buys a palm and 
carries it to church on that day, and 
many children bring their palms home 
afterwards, where they fasten them to 
some balcony or window in the house, as 
the palm is supposed by some to bring 
good luck to the spot where it may be 
placed. Some of the palms are very ar- 
tistically woven and braided in various 
designs, the Indians showing a great deal 
of skill in preparing highly ornamented 
palms for sale on the streets on Palm 
Sunday. 



CHAPTER VII 

HOLY WEEK, CORPUS CHRISTI, ST. JOHN's 
DAY, AND MEXICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY 

The church processions around the 
streets of the city during Holy Week 
which are held in some of the Latin- 
American countries were abandoned 
many years ago in Mexico, so I have 
never seen any there, but I did see them 
in Guatemala. Nevertheless that week 
is a very busy one in all parts of Mexico 
for Catholic church-goers. Thursday is 
the day to visit the altars at the different 
churches. These are beautifully orna- 
mented with flowers and plants and 
lighted by hundreds of candles and elec- 
tric lights. As flowers are so cheap and 
bountiful there, it is easy to secure great 
quantities of them. Thousands of people 
are seen going in and out of these 
48 



HOLY WEEKy INDEPENDENCE DAY 49 

churches all day long, and in reality 
some of the altars or temples are so 
artistically and prettily arranged that 
they are wondrously beautiful. 

Good Friday is a solemn day ; in 
former years no carriages or any kind of 
vehicles were allowed on the streets. 
This is not the case at present, still even 
now very few persons will play the piano 
or go to the theatre or to a party on this 
day. 

On Holy Saturday in the morning at 
ten o^clock the burning of " Judas " takes 
place. This custom is observed a great 
deal, and more so in Mexico City than 
elsewhere. Toys made of cardboard rep- 
resenting men and animals, and having 
firecrackers fastened to them, are sold in 
great quantities to children, who suspend 
these figures in the court-yards or corri- 
dors of their homes. At the stroke of 
ten, when the church-bells are heard, 
the children light and burn them. In 
some streets the laboring classes hang up 



50 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

large figures, sometimes even six or seven 
feet high, made of straw or rags and 
dressed to represent men. These also 
contain firecrackers and have fireworks 
attached to them. It is needless to say 
that there is a deafening noise when the 
burning of " Judas " occurs, something 
which we when children used so much to 
enjoy seeing and hearing. This well- 
known custom of burning Judas is sup- 
posed to be done as a reminder and con- 
demnation of the betrayal of Our Lord 
the Saviour by Judas, an apostle and one 
of His companions. 

Easter is gay, and all the drives and 
streets are crowded with pleasure-seekers, 
also all the theatres and places of amuse- 
ments. 

" Corpus Day " is another festivity in 
which we young people used to take 
much interest. The religious ceremonies 
on that day are elaborate ; the parks and 
drives, as on other holidays, are full of 
people, promenading and enjoying them- 



HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 51 

selves, while everywhere toy-sellers are 
seen, and more than ever fruit-venders 
are plying their trade. On that day 
little " huacales " are sold. These are 
little boxes or crates made out of pieces 
of sticks, leaves, and greens, filled with 
fruits of the season. These " huacales " 
are sometimes quite expensive, when 
they contain choice fruits, but usually 
the majority are cheap and a child can 
with a few cents buy his *' huacal." 

" Dia de Muertos " (All Souls' Day) is 
greatly observed in Mexico City by per- 
sons visiting the cemeteries and decorat- 
ing the graves of departed relatives or 
friends with beautiful wreaths and flow- 
ers. The resting-places of the dead are 
crowded, all the tramways that lead to 
the different cemeteries are full of passen- 
gers all day long, coming and going. 
During the day preceding and the day 
after, as well as " Dia de Muertos," booths 
are erected, sometimes near the Zocalo or 
Alameda, where peculiar toys and sweet- 



52 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

meats are sold in shapes of skulls, tombs, 
etc., all of funereal aspect, but which 
strange to say do not frighten the chil- 
dren, who buy these queer toys and take 
home to play with them. A bread is also 
sold called " pan de muerto '* (dead 
man's bread), made into these weird 
shapes. 

At every theatre the drama, ** Don 
Juan Tenorio," is given for a few days 
around All Souls' Day and also on that 
particular day. The play is in verse and 
written by Zorrilla, a well-known Span- 
ish author. It is a weird and allegorical 
play, describing a young man whose great 
reputation for his numerous successful 
love affairs and duels was known every- 
where. Suddenly he falls really in love 
with Dona Ines. This girl is sent to a 
convent, to become a nun, by her father, 
so that Don Juan cannot pursue her, but 
the insistent lover manages to send her 
letters full of his great devotion and 
finally carries her off, even though a nun. 



HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 53 

to a castle by the sea. He has duels 
with her father, brother, and others, kill- 
ing them all, and from grief Doiia Ines 
dies. He visits her tomb, and there 
while praying for her and God's forgive- 
ness, the ghosts of all those he killed ap- 
pear and demand his condemnation. 
The spirit of Dona Ines prays for his par- 
don and they are reunited finally in 
heaven and Paradise. The verses are 
beautiful in sweetness and originality. 
This play is given every year in nearly 
every Latin-American country and Spain 
during " Dia de Muertos," so that it is 
considered one of the most popular and 
well-known plays in Spanish-speaking 
cities. Perhaps ''Don Juan Tenorio'' 
has been given more than any other play 
in the world. In these countries the 
name " Tenorio " is greatly used, being 
often applied to the men who have many 
love affairs. 

Our greatest national holiday is the 
Sixteenth of September, Mexico's Inde- 



54 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

pendence Day, our " Fourth of July/' It 
is a most eventful and greatly celebrated 
day. On the fifteenth, at eleven o'clock 
at night, which is supposed to begin that 
joyous celebration, the President, who is 
at the National Palace, generally giving a 
grand reception, appears at the stroke of 
eleven and rings the liberty bell and ex- 
claims : " Viva Mexico 1 " (Long Live 
Mexico I ). At that moment cannons, 
whistles, bells, clapping, and shouts are 
heard on all sides, and the military bands 
play the National Anthem. All the 
public buildings, the Cathedral, and the 
streets around the Zocalo are also sud- 
denly illuminated by thousands of elec- 
tric lights in green, white, and red, our 
national colors. 

This large square and the streets sur- 
rounding it are crowded to their full 
capacity, the people's voices and applause 
thrill the air with excitement and en- 
thusiasm, showing their great love for 
their country and true patriotism. On 



HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 55 

the morning of the sixteenth a grand 
parade takes place, lasting several hours ; 
the infantry, cavalry, artillery, and our 
famous " Rurales " take part and are re- 
viewed by the President from the Na- 
tional Palace balconies. 

Our frequent trips to Mexico were gen- 
erally around this month, which was my 
favorite on account of being able to wit- 
ness this enthusiastic celebration. I may 
say that I have seen it several times from 
the balconies of the National Palace. 



CHAPTER VIII 

CHKISTMAS TIME 

The Christmas tree, the children's de- 
light in the United States, is sometimes 
used in Mexico, but the " nacimiento," 
or birth of Christ, is the typical Christmas 
amusement for the Mexican children. 

The figures of the child Jesus, the 
three Kings, St. Joseph, the Virgin, shep- 
herds, and animals are made by the In- 
dians in clay or wax, painted in brilliant 
colors. These are placed on a table or 
platform where a representation of the 
stable at Bethlehem is arranged, with 
moss and green to simulate hills, trees, 
and roads, while by using mirrors, lakes 
or ponds are shown. Scattered here and 
there are tiny houses, huts, and the shep- 
herds and animals, the whole being il- 
luminated with candles or electric lights. 
56 



CHRISTMAS TIME 67 

Some of these " nacimientos " are very 
artistic and elaborate, and are really 
worth seeing. 

The " posadas " are evening parties 
given for a period of nine days at dif- 
ferent friends' houses, the last being on 
Christmas day. When the invited guests 
meet at the house where the " posada " is 
held, they go in a procession accompanied 
with music, singing and carrying the 
child Jesus, as if they were asking for 
posada or lodging for it. Another group 
is stationed at one of the parlors and be- 
hind closed doors. They also sing some 
hymns and after a time the door is 
opened, and those seeking the posada are 
admitted. After this there is dancing 
and supper is served. A tray is also 
passed around with pretty souvenirs 
filled with candies for each guest, this 
being a feature of the " posada." Some- 
times a " piiiata " is broken. This is an 
earthen jar decorated with tissue-paper in 
all colors and shapes and filled with 



58 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

candies, nuts, and all kinds of sweet- 
meats. Each person or child in turn is 
blindfolded and with a stick tries to 
break this ** pinata," but many times 
they miss it, or lose their way and go in 
another direction, so the rest have to run 
and get out of their way, or surely they 
would get a good hit on their head or 
body. When finally some one breaks the 
piiiata, all rush and shout and try to get 
most of the candies and other things, 
these being quickly picked up from the 
floor by all participants. This amuse- 
ment is nearly always used in all chil- 
dren's parties and I remember that I 
enjoyed it very much for its good fun. 

Perhaps it is unnecessary for me to say 
that on Christmas eve the churches are 
crowded with people who go to the mid- 
night mass, as is the case among the 
Catholics in the United States. In some 
instances there is a family gathering at 
the homes of those who have been pres- 
ent at the midnight mass, but of course 



CHRISTMAS TIME 59 

while a child I had to forego this on ac- 
count of the lateness of the hour when it 
was given. Furthermore these reunions 
are usually only for older persons. 

Presents are given on New Year's Day 
to the grown-up persons and toys and 
other gifts to the children on Kings' 
Day, January sixth. The Kings are the 
Mexican Santa Claus and are supposed to 
bring toys to the little ones. On that 
day a party is given for children, a large 
cake being placed on the table, in the 
center of all the other sweetmeats. This 
special cake contains a bean, and if a 
girl gets it she is the queen and selects 
a king from among the boys present, 
while if, on the other hand, the bean 
falls to a boy, he chooses the queen, and 
I was that lucky person at one of these 
parties that I attended. The king is 
supposed to give a few days later a party 
or picnic to all those who had attended, 
so of course we children loved this party, 
as in reality it meant two parties. 



60 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

Whenever we were in the United States 
we had oar Christmas tree and Santa 
Glaus would always fill our stockings, so I 
know both Christmas celebrations, Mexi- 
can and American, and like them both 
immensely. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 

The business section of Mexico City is 
in the old part of the town and most of 
the streets are somewhat narrow, al- 
though the avenues of Cinco de Mayo 
and Avenida Juarez and others are 
unusually wide. 

Many old buildings dating back to the 
time of the Spaniards still exist, but a 
great many important and modern ones 
have been built lately. During the Cen- 
tennial celebrations in 1910, several build- 
ings, hospitals, asylums, etc., were opened. 
The new Post Ofifice is a very handsome 
one, the interior being mostly of marble, 
and was built in recent years, and the 
National Theatre will be one of the best 
and most costly in America. 

The National Museum in the city of 
Mexico is well worth seeing, and I re- 
61 



62 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

member that when a little girl I visited 
it several times and saw many other chil- 
dren there, too. A great many relics 
and antiquities are to be seen there and 
are most interesting, dating back hun- 
dreds of years to the time of the Aztecs, 
before the Conquest of Mexico by Her- 
nan Cortes, also some from during the 
Spanish dominion. 

The Aztec Calendar is well known all 
over the Republic. It is a large round 
stone with carvings of Aztec designs, and 
is supposed to be the calendar of those 
ancient times. Numerous other carved 
stones and antiquities are also seen there. 
Another notable relic is what is known 
as the Sacrificial Stone, being a huge 
round and weighty slab with carvings on 
the upper portion and on the sides, and 
with a round cavity on top where it was 
said that the heart of the victim to be, 
sacrificed was cut out of the body, the/ 
blood being allowed to flow along a duct 
carved out in the stone. We children 



TEE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 63 

used to look at that stone with fright and 
horror. What attracted most the atten- 
tion of us young people were the toys 
used by the Aztec children and which 
are also on exhibition in the National 
Museum. 

The Indians are descendants of the 
Aztecs and in these modern times are 
very skilful in carving, and making 
curiosities of all kinds. 

Perhaps it may not be out of place to 
say that there is a very good Academy 
of Fine Arts in Mexico City. It is 
called the San Carlos National Academy. 
I visited it several times when I was a 
little girl and although at that time I 
could not appreciate the meritorious 
works of art, mostly paintings, that it 
contains, I always was particularly 
pleased to look at the many fine pictures 
to be seen at that institution, especially 
those referring to Mexican historical 
events. 

The new section of " colonias," the 



64 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

residential part of the city, is very at- 
tractive. It has small parks or circles at 
intervals and trees all along the side- 
walks. The houses are generally sur- 
rounded by gardens and many are en- 
closed by high iron fences. The archi- 
tecture is very modern and the houses 
have all the comforts necessary in the 
interior. Some of these houses are beau- 
tiful and large, others smaller but all in 
quaint, artistic, and original styles. 

We lived at Avenida Prim, " Colonia 
Juarez,'' for several months in 1903, 
coming from Guatemala to visit our 
native land. The house was very at- 
tractive in the style of a bungalow and 
had a lovely garden with vines and 
flowers, also a stable in the rear, all en- 
closed by a high elaborate iron fence. It 
was prettily and comfortably furnished 
and the owners even rented to us their 
horses and carriage. Nearly every after- 
noon I took a drive with my parents, 
brothers, or little sister, and in the morn- 



THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 65 

ings took lessons in Spanish, English, 
and French, and on the piano, with pri- 
vate teachers at home. After we left 
this house it was taken by the Spanish 
Minister. 

Most of the streets in " Colonia Juarez " 
have names of European cities and those 
of " Colonia Roma " adjoining the former, 
the names of leading cities and states of 
the Republic. In the old part of the 
city some streets have odd and queer 
names, such as " Las Ratas " (The Rats) ; 
'* El Indio Triste " (The Sad Indian) ; 
" El Zapo " (The Frog) ; others had names 
of popular heroes and events of Mexican 
history, these being Avenida Juarez, 
after the great President Benito Juarez, 
which is on one side of the Alameda ; 
Avenida Cinco de Mayo, which com- 
memorates a battle won by the Mexi- 
cans ; Avenida de la Independencia 
(Avenue of Independence), and those of 
illustrious men, as Guerrero, Morelos, 
and many others. 



66 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

The legend connected with the street 
" Don Juan Manuel " is quite peculiar. 
It seems that during the administration 
of one of the Viceroys, several murders 
were committed in that street, and what 
seemed strange was that the bloody deeds 
should take place near midnight. Many 
people were suspected, and as at that 
time the police was not of the best, and 
several persons were murdered before the 
guilty one was discovered. At last the 
crimes were proved to be the deeds of a 
very rich though somewhat eccentric 
man, popularly known as Don Juan 
Manuel, who lived in that street. It 
seems that he would stay on the sidewalk 
near his house, and when a passer-by 
would ask him the time, he would tell 
the exact hour, adding, ** You are for- 
tunate to know the hour when you are 
to die," and thereupon stab him to death. 
This legend of Don Juan Manuel was 
quite well known by many children, and 
some of the younger ones were even 



THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 67 

afraid to pass through Don Juan Manuel 
Street. 

The avenues in time of the Aztecs were 
canals and had bridges from one side of 
the street to the other. Where these 
bridges existed the streets were called 
until recently " Puente (bridge) de San 
Francisco " ; " Puente (bridge) de Al- 
varado," etc. At the latter it is said that 
Pedro de Alvarado, who was second in 
command to Hernan Cortes, during the 
conquest, leaped by means of his lance 
from one side of the canal to the other 
and thus escaped from the threatening 
Aztecs. Of course this street seems really 
too wide to permit a feat of that kind, 
still the legend is one of the most popular 
and best known. 

Lately a great many of the names of 
the streets have been changed, so no 
doubt whenever I go back there, I shall 
find many new names and will have to 
get acquainted with them in order not to 
get lost. In some respects it must be a 



68 WEEN I WAS A GIEL IN MEXICO 

great advantage over the old names, as 
formerly, in point of fact, many per- 
sons could not locate some streets, because 
in some parts of the city (the old section) 
every block had a different name. 

The city has a good tramway system, 
most of the lines starting from the large 
Central Square or Zocalo. The electric 
street-cars that go to the suburbs are of 
two kinds, first and second class, the 
latter being cheaper and only patronized 
by the poorer classes. Those cars are 
quite crowded in the mornings, at noon, 
and in the evenings on week days, and 
they are jammed on holidays and Sun- 
days. 

Hacks and taxis are quite reasonable 
in their fares, but there is always a tip to 
give to the coachman or chauffeur. Need- 
less to say, when I was a little girl, there 
were no taxis in Mexico City, the means 
of public conveyance being carriages of 
three kinds, bearing little flags in white, 
red, and blue, according to the charge to 



THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 69 

be made. The white marked the cheap- 
est carriages, very bad-appearing and 
with poor horses, while those having the 
red ones were quite fair, and those with 
the blue flags were the best. As soon as 
a carriage was occupied the little colored 
flag was lowered, thus indicating that 
the vehicle had been taken. 



CHAPTER X 

BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEC 

The beautiful castle of Chapultepec is 
situated away up on a hill, a most 
picturesque sight. It is surrounded by 
trees and all kinds of green foliage, and 
below are woods with winding paths, 
parks, and a lake where many canoes 
glide about with merry people. 

Chapultepec Park is the principal drive 
of Mexico City and is always well filled 
with automobiles, carriages and people 
promenading ; especially on Sundays, 
Thursdays and holidays, it is crowded. 
One or two bands play on these days at 
the different band-stands. 

One can enter Chapultepec castle either 
by ascending on an elevator or by walk- 

'70 



BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEG 71 

ing or driving up a winding path. Close 
to it is the Military Academy, which is 
most interesting to visit. The cadets of 
this Academy are the pride of the Mexi- 
can people ; they are our West Point 
Cadets. They drill there in a large 
court-yard at specified hours, and can be 
seen drilling by persons who wish to 
watch them from the castle. 

The scenery from away up there is 
wonderful, as one sees far below and at a 
short distance Mexico City with all its 
splendors, high church towers, old Span- 
ish and modern architecture in public 
buildings and dwellings, also the snow- 
covered peaks of the two volcanoes Po- 
pocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl, which ap- 
pear to be quite near. It is said that 
when General Grant visited this spot, 
during his trip around the world, he 
stated that the view from the balconies 
of Chapultepec castle was one of the most 
enchanting in the world. 

Many times I visited this historic place 



72 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

with my mother to call on Mrs. Diaz, 
wife of President Porfirio Diaz. They 
generally resided there in the summer 
months. She is a most gracious and dis- 
tinguished lady, speaks several languages 
and was always very amiable and kind 
to every one, rich or poor. She showed 
us nearly all the castle, the different lux- 
urious reception-rooms, parlors, gardens, 
and terraces. One terrace is enclosed in 
beautiful colored glass in artistic designs 
of figures and landscapes. Here we had 
tea and enjoyed her charming hospitality 
many times. 

Around the forest below, surrounding 
and near Chapultepec castle are immense 
trees called " ahuehuetes," that are said 
to have been planted by the Aztecs, sev- 
eral hundred years ago. From these 
trees, which are very high, a peculiar 
moss in long strings hangs from the 
branches. This moss is generally used to 
ornament the " nacimientos " on Christ- 
mas, to which I refer elsewhere. 



BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEC 73 

Along the hill that leads to the castle 
is a basin or small pond which is said to 
have been used by Montezuma, Emperor 
of the Aztecs, as his bathing-place. In 
another direction, but still on the hill, 
one can see the monument erected to the 
memory of some of the cadets who died 
defending the castle, during the war with 
the United States. 

Chapultepec Park is well kept, and ef- 
ficient guards are stationed at different 
places where the many carriages and 
automobiles might endanger the safety 
of the large crowds of people on Sundays 
and holidays. Not far from the hill be- 
low there is a restaurant, which is well 
patronized. This restaurant is an attract- 
ive building situated by itself near the 
main driveway. It has terraces all 
around, some being enclosed by glass, 
where many tables are placed, but the 
principal dining-rooms are in the inte- 
rior. On these special days it is un- 
usually thronged, and gay with music. 



74 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

A great many of the banquets given 
during the Pan-American Conference 
and Centennial celebrations were held at 
this restaurant. 



CHAPTER XI 

THE FLOATING GAKDENS AND VIGA CANAL 

The Viga Canal is unusually pictur- 
esque and quaint, extending many miles. 
On both sides are trees, flowers, shrubs, 
and greens of all descriptions, also small 
villages now and then. 

On feast days and holidays, especially 
on the Friday (Viernes de Dolores) pre- 
ceding Holy Week it is at its best, 
crowded with canoes, row-boats and 
steam-launches, gayly decorated with 
flowers, green foliage and flags. Here 
the people of all classes, rich and poor, 
enjoy picnics, or "dias de campo'* to 
their hearts' content. The quaint old- 
fashioned canoe is very large, with a flat 
bottom, and holds a large number of 

persons. 

76 



76 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

I always recall one very pleasant and 
enjoyable picnic I attended there. We 
were over fifty girls and boys, also a few 
chaperones, a thing that is indispensable 
in Latin-American countries. Our two 
canoes (the old-fashioned kind) were 
prettily decorated with flowers and 
greens, and at one end of each canoe sat 
several musicians playing lively airs, 
while we glided smoothly down the 
canal. As we reached the floating gar- 
dens, we stopped long enough to admire 
these wonders of nature. The flowers 
grow in the water and one sees them 
peeping up, some with long stems rising 
from the water, with scarcely any earth 
or roots to be seen. 

A short distance farther there is a spot 
called " Ojo de Agua," where the water 
is so clear that you can see the bottom, 
away down many feet in depth. Upon 
throwing a coin, you can see it distinctly 
when it reaches the bottom. 

All along the Viga Canal there are 



THE FLOATING GARDENS 77 

little Indian villages, where the poor 
people raise flowers and vegetables which 
they take in their canoes to Mexico City 
to sell at various markets, and at the 
landing-place. It is interesting to visit 
these villages, especially on occasions 
when some religious or other festivity is 
being held. 

There are also on both sides of the 
canal scattered here and there rustic 
summer-houses with benches for the 
picnickers. We could not find one large 
enough for our party, so we decided to 
leave our canoes and wander on land, 
until we found a suitable and favored 
spot. Here we spread the cloths and laid 
the good things to eat, every one being 
rather hungry. There we ate, talked, 
laughed, and took pictures, all being in 
a very merry mood, and then returned to 
our canoes. When we reached the land- 
ing-place all were in the dancing spirit, 
so the whole party took the trolley-cars 
to the Country Club, an up-to-date and 



78 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIC0 

important club where Americans, Eng- 
lish, Mexicans, and all nationalities 
assemble to dance, play tennis, golf, etc. 
This club is situated a short distance 
from the city and is very attractive. We 
danced until late that evening and re- 
turned to Mexico City and our homes 
with very pleasant and enjoyable mem- 
ories of our " dia de campo " spent along 
the Viga Canal. 

At the end of the Canal is Xochimilco, 
a typical Indian village much larger 
than the rest, and where most of the 
flowers are brought from to sell at the 
Mercado de Flores (Flower market) and 
other places in Mexico City. At this 
locality some new water- works have been 
established which furnish some of the 
water to the capital. 



CHAPTER XII 

BY RAIL IN MEXICO 

One of the wonders of nature and en- 
gineering is the railway from Vera Cruz 
(one of Mexico's ports on the Gulf of 
Mexico) to Mexico City, the capital of 
the Republic. 

One leaves Vera Cruz early in the 
morning, in a tropical climate, and grad- 
ually ascends, on a winding track up 
hills and mountains, with frequent preci- 
pices in sight, until Mexico City is 
reached, twelve hours later. The cap- 
ital is 7,500 feet above sea level, so you 
find a decided change of temperature, in 
fact you feel quite cold after experiencing 
the heat of Vera Cruz. On this account 
it is advisable to go prepared with wraps 
for your arrival. 

The scenery is magnificent all along, 
79 



80 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

vegetation of all descriptions, such as the 
cactus, maguey, etc., typical of Mexican 
soil. Beautiful valleys far, far below are 
to be seen, and especially from a very 
high peak one beholds the quaint old 
town of Maltrata, which at such great 
distance looks like toyland, enchanted 
with moving figures, well-laid streets, 
and odd low dwellings. Many moun- 
tain-peaks covered with snow are also to 
be seen and nearing Mexico City, the 
volcanoes Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl. 
All these wonderful scenes are in the 
highest degree inspiring to the painter. 

The engineering of that road was a 
very difficult task. One imagines at 
times that the train will turn over into 
one of those deep precipices, as there are 
so many sharp curves and barely space 
on the road-bed for trains to pass. Some 
accidents have occurred, but on rare oc- 
casions. 

Another interesting sight is the ar- 
riving at every station. Indian men. 




The Popocatepetl. 
Mexico's most famous volcano. 




The Ixtaccihuatl. 
Another large volcano which can also be seen from Mexico City. 



BY BAIL IN MEXICO 81 

women, and children are awaiting the 
trains to sell through the car windows to 
the passengers, drawn-work, potteries, 
fruits, and all kinds of Mexican curios- 
ities. At one of these stations, the town 
being well known for its plentiful gar- 
denias, they sell them arranged inside 
of the stalk of the banana, which pre- 
serves and keeps them fresh for many 
days. These gardenias in the United 
States are among the most expensive and 
rare flowers, while in Mexico they are 
very abundant and very cheap. 

The port of Vera Cruz is quite an 
important one of the Republic, as great 
quantities of imports and exports are 
brought and taken from here to Europe, 
Cuba, and the United States, although to 
the latter a great portion goes by land. 
The city is quaint and very clean, with 
well-paved streets and good drainage. 
Hardly a case of yellow fever is ever 
reported now, but it is quite warm all the 
year around, as are all tropical places. 



82 WHEN I WAS A QIRL IN MEXICO 

The park or square in the center of the 
city is where most of the hotels and 
shops are located, these buildings having 
arcades. At the restaurants and caf^s 
tables are placed right on the sidewalks 
and on these arcades, leaving only room 
enough for the pedestrians. It is much 
cooler to dine or take refreshments out 
there, and at night the sea-breeze is felt 
and is much welcomed. 

During the afternoons and evenings 
the band plays at that square and it gets 
filled with people, who promenade or sit 
on the benches to listen to the music. 
An odd sight to be seen there, just as the 
sun goes down, is hundreds of black 
birds flying about and perching all 
along the telegraph wires that are around 
this park. They remain there all night, 
to fly away, no one knows where, at 
daybreak, and return again that same 
evening. 

Although we remained in Vera Cruz 
but a day or a few hours at a time on 



BY BAIL IN MEXICO 83 

our various trips from Habana to Mexico 
City, still I saw most of the city and 
surroundings. The Naval Academy is 
located at this port. This we visited, 
and were shown around by some of the 
officers we met on the gunboats Zaragoza 
and Yucatan that stopped at the port 
of Habana while we were there. It was 
very interesting to visit that Naval 
Academy and see the splendid discipline 
these cadets receive. 

Among the cities which I have visited 
in the interior of the Republic, are 
Guadalajara, the second largest in Mexico, 
the capital, Mexico City, being the first 
and most important. All the best 
pottery curiosities are made in Guada- 
lajara. The Indians make figures, statues, 
dishes, and ornaments of pottery or 
earthenware in attractive designs and 
painted in appropriate colors ; they also 
make from this material statues and 
busts, copied from the original or photo- 
graphs in exact likeness. The city has 



84 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

many fine buildings, houses, and well- 
paved streets. The third in importance 
and population is Puebla, called the city 
of churches, owing to the numerous and 
especially beautiful ones that it has. It 
is also an attractive city, and from here 
most of the onyx comes in various colors 
and shades. The Indians who have such 
a knack and taste for making curiosities 
carve the onyx into various shapes and 
designs, imitating fruits, vegetables, etc. 

We traveled by land many times, go- 
ing or coming from Mexico City to the 
United States, going on the Mexican Cen- 
tral railroad and passing through El 
Paso, and Eagle Pass on the American 
side, both border cities. Other towns of 
Mexico that I remember passing were 
Queretaro, where Archduke Maximilian 
was shot. His luxurious gilt coach is 
now in the National Museum ; I saw it 
when visiting that interesting museum at 
Mexico City. Most of the opals come 
from Queretaro and as one reaches that 



BY BAIL IN MEXICO 85 

station many Indians are to be seen sell- 
ing them. The passengers sometimes 
buy expensive and genuine opals very 
cheaply from these venders. We also 
passed by Chihuahua, Guanajuato, and 
Zacatecas, the last two being mining 
towns. Zacatecas is very hilly and pic- 
turesque ; it has so many ups and downs 
that there is a tramway that goes to 
Guadalupe, a small town below, the cars 
going by themselves down this steep hill. 
In Guanajuato there is a very large and 
beautiful theatre, that was erected not so 
very many years ago. The *' presas " or 
reservoirs which provide water for the 
city are noteworthy, and owing to the 
hilly condition of the country around 
there, are highly picturesque. At Guan- 
ajuato and Zacatecas we visited the mines 
and reduction works, but as I was a very 
small girl when we went there, I can 
scarcely remember anything of my visits 
to those places. 



CHAPTER XIII 

IN GUATEMALA, AND BACK TO MEXICO 

We lived in Guatemala on two occa- 
sions, my father being sent there both 
times as Mexican Minister ; once years 
ago when I was a little child, remaining 
over two years. I scarcely remember 
anything, only our splendid large house 
with interior court-yards, gardens, sta- 
bles, etc., also some of the children, who 
on my second visit there became my 
close friends, recalling vaguely that we 
had known each other when very small. 

Guatemala brings back to me pleasant 
recollections of good times, and good 
friends. The people are very hospitable 
and show in many ways their fondness 
for one. On saints' days, feasts, or de- 
partures they always remember one by 
sending flowers, candies, or other gifts. 
80 



IN GUATEMALA 87 

The city was of a decided old Spanish 
architecture with low houses, not more 
than two stories high. The roofs were of 
red tiles, and the lower windows had iron 
bars, through which many a lover spoke 
to or serenaded his ** novia '' (sweetheart). 
There are two lovely drives, the " Paseo 
de la Reforma" and the " Hipodromo.^' 
At the latter there is a fair-week for horse- 
racing during the month of August. 
Three days are selected for the races, and 
crowds of people go to witness them. 
Sometimes races for the benefit of some 
benevolent institution are given, when 
those who take part in them are young 
men well known in social circles. I re- 
call well enough how in one of those 
races, my brothers rode their own horses, 
and how frightened I was fearing that 
some accident might happen to them. 
Fortunately nothing disagreeable oc- 
curred, and I was even glad to see that 
they won some of the races and received 
prizes. 



88 WHUN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

At the Hipodromo the festivities of 
Minerva, so called, would also take place. 
Then all the children of the public and 
private schools took part in the exercises 
held, which were very interesting, and 
prizes were given to the most deserving. 
While in Guatemala I continued my 
studies at home with private teachers. 

The Colon theatre is very large and 
attractive, where all the ^lite meet. 
Many go, if the company of artists is not 
of the best, as if to a social gathering. It 
is the custom here, as in Mexico and in 
nearly all the Latin-American countries, 
to have the intermissions very long, and 
in that way allow the audience to ex- 
change visits at the different boxes and 
chat with the ladies and the girls with 
the "novios" (sweethearts). There is 
also a foyer at that theatre, where the 
young people meet during the intermis- 
sions. 

There is a bull-ring in Guatemala City. 
When we were there Mazzantini, the 



IN GUATEMALA 89 

great Spanish bull-fighter, gave several 
performances. He made the trip on the 
same steamer that my family and I took 
from Salina Cruz, Mexico, to San JosS, 
Guatemala. In that way we met him 
and liked him very much. He was not 
of the ordinary class, like most bull- 
fighters, but belonged to a well-known 
Spanish family, and was well educated 
and refined. When he was a boy he took 
such a liking to this sport ^of" torero,'' 
that he followed it as a profession. I 
know that upon his return to Spain, his 
wife having died, he left ofi* bull-fight- 
ing and was elected a member of the 
Common Council of Madrid. 

Beautiful gowns and hats are seen at 
these bull-fights. The young ladies that 
are selected to be queens wore the Span- 
ish " mantilla " (white or black Spanish 
lace) over their heads, becomingly ar- 
ranged with bright flowers and high 
combs. The Indian girls wear their best, 
brilliant shawls of all colors^ some of 



90 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

tliese having long fringe and embroidery. 
All this adds greatly to the spectacle 
along the streets, thronged with gayety 
and life, leading to the bull-ring, which 
I enjoyed seeing, though I am not a par- 
tisan of that sport. 

It is sad to relate that very recently 
Guatemala City was nearly all destroyed 
by terrible earthquakes, so that I shall 
never again see it as I remember it. 

Our trip back from Guatemala to Mex- 
ico (during our first stay in that country) 
was just before the railroad was put in 
operation, so after arriving at Manzanillo, 
one of Mexico's ports, having been trav- 
eling about five days on a steamer, we 
had to go by land, two days on muleback 
and one by stage-coach, until we reached 
Guadalajara. It was a very interesting 
but trying trip, as at four o'clock before 
daybreak, we had to start on muleback 
or by stage-coach, and make many 
changes and rest at various towns or small 
villages, some not having a hotel but 



IN GUATEMALA 91 

only lodging-houses, where we ate, or 
stayed for the night. 

Those roads through mountains, hills 
and precipices have wonderful scenery, 
with dense vegetation, mountains, etc., 
also snow-covered peaks, but it was rather 
a dangerous journey, although the mules 
are well acquainted with the roads and 
are sure-footed. Nevertheless it fright- 
ened us at times ; the roads were so nar- 
row that only two mules or horses could 
go abreast, or pass each other, going or 
coming. Each of us children, the 
younger ones, had a guide, who rode 
behind on the same mule with each one, 
to hold us on, but my father, mother, and 
older brothers went alone, with the guide 
near at hand. These mules always insist 
on going as close to the edge of the preci- 
pices as possible, making one nervous and 
uneasy. 

Some of the precipices and hills have 
queer names, one of them being called 
" La Llorona '' (The Weeping Woman), 



92 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

which some say has been applied to it on 
account of the legend to which I have 
referred and which served to scare chil- 
dren and even ignorant adults, while 
others assert that it is so designated be- 
cause most women who ride through that 
narrow path get so scared that sometimes 
they even weep through fear. 

One of these days we were traveling 
on the stage-coach, and being bounced 
and knocked about for many hours, and 
should have reached a certain village be- 
fore dark, but somehow our driver took 
the wrong path and we lost our guides. 
At that time they always went armed, 
because there had been cases of attacks 
by robbers, and these guides of course 
knew the roads perfectly well. It was 
night already and still we wandered 
about to find the right road, we children 
thinking that we were in danger of being 
robbed or killed in those dark places, 
and no one could defend us, as all were 
unarmed. Finally we met the guides, 



IN GUATEMALA 93 

who also were looking everywhere for 
our stage-coach, and they in turn with 
matches and lighted papers, as best as 
they could, found the much-desired road 
and directed our driver. We reached the 
town shortly afterwards, much to our de- 
light, after having passed anxious and 
trying hours of suspense and fear, and 
also being well worn out. 

When we reached Guadalajara we 
found the city gayly decorated, owing 
to the festivities that then took place on 
account of the opening of a railroad. 
President Diaz was there with his cab- 
inet, and the celebrations were very 
elaborate. Being very small I remember 
hardly anything of what took place. 
From Guadalajara we took a train to 
Mexico City, and after staying a few days 
there we left by rail for Washington, 
where my father had been sent as First 
Secretary of the Mexican Legation, which 
afterwards became an Embassy. 



CHAPTER XIV 

RESIDING AND STUDYING IN WASHING- 
TON, D. C. 

Most of my education was acquired by 
private teachers at home, in Mexico, 
Guatemala, and the United States, but I 
also went several years to a convent in 
Washington. When we arrived in this 
city I was a little girl and spoke only 
Spanish, but soon, as children do, learned 
to speak English. 

At first I had a private teacher at 
home who taught me English, and piano, 
going afterwards as a day scholar to the 
Academy of the Visitation on Connecti- 
cut Avenue. The nuns were very kind 
to me, but at first I was rather timid and 
bashful, as this was my first experience 
away from home. When I was called to 

read or say my lessons aloud it made me 
94 



BE SIDING IN WASHINGTON 95 

quite nervous, because I thought that, 
being a foreigner, my pronunciation was 
not correct and that the girls inwardly 
made fun of me. I am glad to say that 
this was not the case, and in a short time 
I liked the convent very much, and made 
many friends among the girls. On our 
way home from school we always bought 
things to eat, as most children do, but 
strange to say I would buy pop-corn, po- 
tato chips, and pickles, which I pre- 
ferred. This amused the other girls, who, 
of course, liked candies best. 

Two years before entering the convent 
a great event took place; my sister was 
born. I had three older brothers and 
two younger ones, the third having died 
when a baby in Mexico City. Two of 
my brothers and I were down with the 
mumps when my little sister was born, 
so I was unable to see her until two 
weeks later, much to my displeasure, as 
I was anxious to see this tiny baby, who 
I thought would be my real baby doll. 



96 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

the preferred one. She was christened 
at home and named after my mother 
Adela, the Mexican Ambassador being 
her godfather. I can remember the 
pretty silver cup and white enameled 
rocking-chair he gave her, also all about 
the ceremony and party afterwards, and 
how grown-up I felt, because I was al- 
lowed to be present. 

In those days the bicycle was very 
popular and in great demand. I of 
course had one and rode on it to school 
nearly every day, enjoying it immensely, 
but one day when the ground was 
covered with snow, I was going at high 
speed, as it was very late, and carried 
many books and my lunch-box, all very 
tightly tied to the handle of my bicycle. 
Suddenly they began to slip away, and 
books and lunch-box fell to the snow- 
covered ground in all directions, much 
to my dismay and anger. I assure you 
that it was quite a task to pick them up, 
clean off the snow, and tie again to the 



RESIDING IN WASHINGTON 97 

bicycle. More than that, I could not 
reach school on time, but got there 
several minutes late. 

Among my schoolmates was Belen 
Azpiroz, daughter of the Mexican Am- 
bassador and godfather to my sister. 
With her I uped to recall the pleasant 
times we had in our own country. I 
also remember how interested I was 
whenever in my class of geography or 
history reference was made to Mexico. 

Washington is a very beautiful city, 
like a huge park in summer, trees in 
every street and lovely parks or squares 
for the children to play in. It somewhat 
reminds one of Mexico City, that is of 
the new residential sections or " colonias." 
How we children used to love to go to 
the Zoological or Rock Creek Park, and 
on Easter Monday to go to roll eggs on 
the White House lawn. We lived at 
that time on Fifteenth Street and our 
house had two nice porches and a swing 
on the lawn, painted green, where we 



98 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

played and swung ourselves to our hearts* 
content. I always enjoy going back to 
Washington, having very pleasant recol- 
lections of our various stays in that city, 
and also it is nice to see again my school 
friends and other friends made there in 
later years. 

As I said before, we went back to San 
Francisco, California, several times and 
during one of our visits there, we took a 
house in Oakland across the bay. I 
can say very little about our residence 
in that city as I was yet quite young, but 
I remember among other things that a 
Mexican military band, that was giving 
concerts in San Francisco, came to sere- 
nade my father, who was then in charge 
of the Mexican Consulate General in that 
city. At that time Juventino Rosas' 
" Sobre las Olas," one of the best waltzes 
written and the work of a Mexican com- 
poser, was in the height of its popularity, 
and whenever the band played it, the 
applause was deafening. 



RESIDING IN WASHINGTON 99 

I have always been fond of music, and 
even when a little girl I used to listen 
with delight to the playing of the Mexi- 
can military bands, which I may say are 
very good, as also to what are called the 
" typical " orchestras, made up of guitars, 
mandolins, and other odd stringed instru- 
ments. The best of these orchestras was 
led by Lerdo de Tejada, a Mexican com- 
poser, whose '' Perjura " and other songs, 
** danzas," and pieces have become very 
popular in the United States. His or- 
chestra and several Mexican military 
bands have visited this country on dif- 
ferent occasions, and they have always 
been enthusiastically received by the 
music-loving public. 



CHAPTER XV 

THE LAUNCHING OF MEXICAN WAR-SHIPS 

Two Mexican war-ships (twin ships) 
were built in the American Crescent 
Shipyard at Elizabeth, N. J. ; the Vera 
Cruz and the Tampico. 

At that time my father was Charg6 
d' Affaires at Washington, D. C, so he 
was asked to have one of his daughters 
christen either of the ships. I was still 
a very young girl with short dresses, but 
was the lucky and fortunate one to be 
chosen, as I was the eldest girl, to be one 
of the sponsors. The other was Mrs. 
Lewis Nixon, wife of the naval con- 
structor. 

It was a bright sunny day in September 
when my family and I boarded a large 
steam launch in New York City's harbor 
for Elizabethport, N. J. 
100 



LAUNCHING OF WAB-SHIPS 101 

This eventful occasion in my life 
thrilled me greatly, and I can well re- 
member this interesting day most viv- 
idly. On arriving at our destination, we 
were met by the American and Mexican 
officials and were escorted to the tempo- 
rary platform, erected close to the bow of 
the ship that I was to christen, this one 
being the Vera Cruz. There I was pre- 
sented with a beautiful bouquet of flowers 
and with a champagne bottle, all done up 
in a gilt net bag with green, white, and 
red ribbon streamers, our national colors. 
On each ribbon there was written in gilt 
letters the name of ship, date, place, 
and name of the " madrina " (sponsor). 
With this elaborate bottle I was to 
christen the war-ship. I was instructed 
to break the bottle on the prow of the 
ship and say, just as it was slipping away, 
" I christen thee Vera Cruz.^^ I also was 
reminded that if the ship should get 
away without this being done, just at the 
right moment, it would be launched un- 



102 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

christened. I was slightly uneasy and 
nervous as to my ability to do the right 
thing at the right time, as every one's at- 
tention was directed at me. 

All went off very nicely, and the bot- 
tle broke in many pieces. The Vera 
Cruz slipped away into the sea, and in 
like manner the TampicOf this last one be- 
ing christened, as I said before, by Mrs. 
Nixon, amid applause, roar of cannons, 
shouting, and the playing of patriotic 
airs of both countries by the band. It 
was a wonderful sight as thousands wit- 
nessed these two ceremonies. The ship- 
yard was profusely decorated with flags 
and national colors, which were waving 
to and fro by the breeze. I still keep 
the champagne bottle in many pieces, 
which are held by the gilt net bag, as a 
remembrance of this pleasant and inter- 
esting occasion. 

After the launching of the two ships, 
we were invited to a banquet and recep- 
tion. The building where these social 



LAUNCHING OF WARSHIPS 103 

functions took place was tastefully orna- 
mented with flags, flowers, and plants. 

The celebrations having terminated, 
we returned again to New York City on 
the steam launch, and from there took a 
train to Bay Shore, L. I., where we had a 
cottage and were spending the summer 
months. 

Afterwards on one of my return trips 
to Mexico, while passing the port of 
Vera Cruz, I had the pleasure of visiting 
the war-ship Vera OruZy which I had 
christened and that was anchored at that 
harbor, and I was happy to know that 
several of the oflScers had kindly remem- 
bered the " madrina " of the vessel. 



CHAPTER XVI 



the buffalo exposition. pkesident 
Mckinley's assassination 



My father was sent to the Pan-Ameri- 
can Exposition at Buffalo, N. Y., from 
Washington, as one of Mexico's repre- 
sentatives. 

We took a house in that lovely and at- 
tractive city and remained there about 
three months, going frequently to the 
Exposition and sometimes we stayed in 
the grounds all day long. 

My delight was to go to the Exposition 
and visit the different buildings, and add 
to my collection badges, pamphlets, coins, 
samples, and imitations of various arti- 
cles on exhibition there, which were 
given away to the people and children.^ 

Of course the greatest desire of us chil- 
104 



THE BUFFALO EXPOSITION 105 

dren was to go to the ** Midway," where 
all the amusements were. I remember 
especially *' The Trip to the Moon," 
"The House Upside Down," and the 
Streets of Cairo; there I rode on the 
backs of a camel and elephant, being al- 
most shaken to pieces, but nevertheless 
enjoying it very much. 

It was a very fine exposition and the 
illuminations were splendid; they say 
that owing to the great power obtained 
from Niagara Falls it had one of the 
best electrical displays ever had in any 
exposition. t\ 

Our trip to Niagara Falls was a very 
interesting one and we were able to 
admire those wonderful waterfalls, the 
greatest in the world, from both the 
American and Canadian sides. We still 
have a photograph taken there. It looks 
as if the whole family, my mother, fa- 
ther, brothers and I, were standing on 
one of the falls ; a scheme the photog- 
raphers have of combining both pic- 



106 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

tures, the Falls and the group, to make 
it appear that way. 

/ The assassination of President McKinley 
' was a tragic and sad event. My parents 
related to me how pleasantly they had 
spent with him that day at an excursion 
and luncheon at Niagara Falls. All the 
officials, American and Latin- American, 
were invited, as were also President and 
Mrs. McKinley. They both were in a 
happy and cheerful mood, mingling and 
chatting most amiably with the other 
guests. 

On returning to Buffalo and the 
Exposition, the party dispersed. My 
father then went home for us children 
to take us to join my mother, who had 
remained with friends in the Mexican 
building. To our great horror and regret 
on entering the grounds in a carriage, as 
that day carriages were permitted inside 
the grounds for the invited guests, 'we 
were told at the gate that an attempt 
had been made on the life of President 



THE BUFFALO EXPOSITION 107 

McKinley and that he was severely 
wounded. At that moment we began to 
hear shouts, screams of "■ Lynch him I " 
and the excitement of the people was 
intense. Just then a carriage passed us 
at high speed, in which the assassin 
Czolgosz was being taken to prison. 
President McKinley at the time of that 
cowardly attempt was holding a public 
reception and shaking hands with all at 
the Temple of Music. That tragedy up- 
set us so much that we changed our plans 
and having met my mother, who also 
was very much impressed, sad and nerv- 
ous, after having witnessed and heard 
the cries of '* Lynch him ! " and seen the 
carriage with the assassin, that we re- 
turned home, instead of remaining the 
rest of the day. Though very young 
then, the terrible event impressed me 
very much, especially as I noticed how 
everybody felt so sad, not only on 
account of the dastardly deed, but be- 
cause President McKinley died a few 



108 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

days later J He was so very kind and 
deservedly popular. 

Mexico had a very important part in 
the Exposition, having an administration 
building and exhibits in all the various 
departments and buildings. These ex- 
hibits were very attractive and interest- 
ing, and drew the attention of thousands 
of visitors. That they were duly ap- 
preciated, is shown by its many prizes 
that Mexican exhibitors received at the 
Exposition. Furthermore it sent a mili- 
tary band, which gave concerts that were 
very popular. I well remember how the 
people applauded when the " Paloma " 
and other typical pieces, that are popular 
in the United States, were played by the 
band. Whenever I went into Mexico 
Building and saw so many things made 
in my country, it seemed, at times, as if I 
were back again in my native land. 



CHAPTER XVII 

THE SECOND PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 

The Second Pan-American Conference 
took place in Mexico City in the winter 
of 1901-1902. 

At that time I was still a little girl, but 
can recall most vividly some of the hap- 
penings of this important conference, 
while we were stopping at the Hotel Itur- 
bide. This was Emperor Iturbide's resi- 
dence, converted into a hotel many years 
ago. It is a very large massive building 
of old Spanish architecture, four stories 
high, with five interior " patios " (court- 
yards), and three different entrances. 
The principal entrance is on San Fran- 
cisco Street, the leading business street of 

Mexico City, and the other entrances are 
109 



110 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

on San Juan de Letran and Coliseo Viejo 
Streets. 

Many of the Pan-American delegates 
were staying at this hotel, and as my 
father was connected with the Mexican 
delegation, I met them all and became 
friends of their children, as most of them 
brought their families. Among the dele- 
gates were many that were Ministers 
from various Latin-American countries 
to the United States and living in Wash- 
ington at the time when we were there, 
so of course we already knew them, and 
it was a pleasure to see them again and 
live in the same hotel. With these chil- 
dren I used to play all kinds of games, 
hide-and-go-seek and tag, through the 
many long halls and corridors of the 
hotel. 

Great excitement prevailed among us 
children and even among the curious 
older persons on the days that these dip- 
lomats and delegates were received by 
President Porfirio Diaz. Presidential 



THE PAN-AMERICAN GONFERENGE 111 

carriages came for them, entering the 
principal " patio," where it was a rare oc- 
currence for any carriages to be allowed. 
The Introducer of Ambassadors came for 
these distinguished men. They wore 
their brilliant uniforms with gold lace 
and embroidery, and plumes on their 
hats. After entering the different car- 
riages they departed in great pomp, we of 
course anxiously awaiting their return. 

Another memorable day, but not such 
a pleasant one, was my first experience 
with an earthquake shock, which was a 
very severe one and during the Pan- 
American Conference. 

Several girl friends and I were watch- 
ing from a second-story balcony of the 
interior court-yard of the hotel the dig- 
ging of a well. One of the workmen 
was climbing up a high ladder, when 
suddenly it began to shake and we began 
to feel a dizzy sensation. Some one 
shouted " Un temblor ! " (an earthquake). 
We became very frightened and ran as 



112 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

fast as we could to our rooms and moth- 
ers. I remember so well how unsteady 
and dizzy I felt going up the flight of 
stairs, and was met by many an anxious 
face, and also by my mother who was 
looking about for my brothers and me. 

The scenes on the streets during an 
earthquake were quite impressive, as 
many Indians knelt and prayed. As 
Mexico City is built on a lake, it is said 
that the shocks of earthquakes, even 
though severe, cannot be so destructive 
as in other cities that are built on more 
solid land. On this account the con- 
struction of buildings is a difficult task, 
as not many feet below is water, and the 
foundations have to be very solid, or in a 
few years the building or structure, if 
very high or massive, begins to sink 
slightly but perceptibly. 

My parents gave several entertain- 
ments to some of the delegates and Mexi- 
can friends. One of these evenings 
several poets and writers of different 



THE PAN' AMEBIC AN CONFERENCE 113 

nationalities were present and each of 
them recited or read one of his composi- 
tions. Among them was Juan de Dios 
Peza, a most renowned and popular Mexi- 
can poet. I used to love to read the 
book which he dedicated to his home and 
children, recalling the verses " Fusiles y 
Munecas " (Guns and Dolls) in which he 
describes his children at play, and their 
favorite aims and amusements. He died 
only a few years ago, much to the regret 
of his numerous admirers and apprecia- 
tive readers of his heartfelt, simply 
worded, and attractive styled poetry. 

The Pan-American delegates were 
taken by the government for excursions 
around the outskirts of the capital, and 
to many of the cities in the interior of 
the Republic ; as I was too small to go, I 
am unable to describe any of these inter- 
esting and enjoyable trips. I do remem- 
ber that many of the factories, from all 
over the country, sent samples to the 
foreign delegates, and recall especially 



114 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIG0 

the large assortment of materials (some 
samples of several yards in length), in 
cotton, woolen, and silk of various colors, 
designs, and textures, all made by Mexi- 
can factories and which could compare 
with those made in the United States 
and elsewhere. Of course we children 
were very much interested in these 
samples, as our mothers gave us the 
smaller pieces for dolls' dresses. 

Clothes and dresses are made from 
these materials, although a great deal is 
also imported from Europe and the United 
States. 

Some persons unacquainted with life 
in Mexico and judging merely from 
many illustrations contained in the 
papers or scenes depicted in the " movies," 
may get the idea, an erroneous one, in- 
deed, that children in Mexico go bare- 
footed, that they are poorly clad and fed. 
Such may be the case with reference to 
the children of the poorer and lower 
classes, or the Indians, the same thing to 



THE PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 115 

be seen in other countries although it 
may be more noticeable in Mexico on 
account of the comparatively larger num- 
ber of Indians to be found there. 

Children and adults of the middle and 
well-to-do classes dress somewhat like 
those of the same rank in the United 
States, there being a tendency to adopt 
in some degree the fashions used in 
France and Spain. I do not mean the 
" mantilla," Spanish fancy dress, or 
" torero " suits, which many believe 
Latin-Americans usually wear on the 
streets and homes, but the same styles 
worn in the United States and in Euro- 
pean cities. ' ' - 

The Indian women and girls of the 
lower classes and servant girls do dress 
differently. They wear no hats but use 
a typical scarf called " rebozo." Those 
of finer hand-made workmanship in silk 
fabrics, for instance, are used by ladies 
and girls in their city homes or when 
residing in the country. Some of these 



116 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

are so finely woven and of such delicate 
texture that they can be easily drawn 
through a ring. 

The Indian men and boys wear the 
typical hat, "sombrero," with a high 
peak and wide brim ; the poorer ones in- 
stead of shoes use sandals, and most of 
them, when cold, in place of overcoats 
use a " sarape." This is a wide piece of 
cloth in woolen, hand-made in bright or 
dull colors with stripes or other designs. 
These " sarapes " have generally an open- 
ing through which to pass the head, and 
others wear them as large scarfs over the 
shoulders. Foreigners greatly admire 
tl"":^ ai^u many uuy them for table 
covers, curtains, or draperies. Some of 
the "sombreros" are made of felt and 
are embroideried with silver and gold 
ornaments, which render them quite 
expensive. Sometimes young boys use 
these finely trimmed " sombreros " when 
going out on horseback, but I must say 
that this custom is fast passing away. 



THE PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 117 

The '* Rurales " wear " sombreros " like 
these and their uniforms or suits fit them 
very tightly. These consist of a short 
jacket and very tightly fitting trousers 
made of doeskin, and are also heavily 
embroidered in silver or gold, similar to 
the " sombreros," and some of them cost 
a great deal and look most attractive. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

IN HABANA 

I HAD just made my dSbut at Washing- 
ton, D. C, and was having a most de- 
lightful time going around to all the 
debutante parties, and grand receptions 
at the White House, Embassies, Lega- 
tions, etc., when my father was trans- 
ferred to Habana, as Mexican Minister to 
Cuba. 

We were very cordially received by 
that government. We took a house at 
Vedado, a residential suburb of Habana, 
on Calle (Street) 17, the same house that 
the former Minister had. At first I 
missed very much my friends and Wash- 
ington, but soon began to like that 
attractive and lively city, and become 
acquainted with some charming Cuban 
people, old and young. 

Soon after our arrival there, two Mexi- 
118 



IN HABANA 119 

can war-ships, the Zaragoza and the 
Yucatan, came to that port. It was a 
great pleasure, and I always felt very 
thrilled and happy whenever I visited 
those ships, as I was then, if only for a 
short time, on Mexican soil, and among 
my countrymen. We entertained the 
officers and they in return gave a party 
and dance on board to us and to the 
Cuban society. It was my first experience 
in attending a dance on board a war-ship, 
so I enjoyed it all the more. The bands 
played several patriotic airs, Mexican 
danzas and songs, the ships being gaily 
decorated with many flags. I still have 
a photograph taken on one of those 
occasions, on board the Zaragoza^ and 
the group of all the invited guests. One 
of the officers gave me a button from his 
uniform, which I have had mounted as 
a hat-pin. 

We lived in four different houses while 
in Habana, as we made several trips to 
Mexico and the United States, staying 



120 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

away a few months during the summer, 
which is quite warm, and also for more 
than a year in Washington again, my 
father having been sent there temporarily. 
The house I liked best, because of the 
beautiful view from its balconies, was 
one on the Malecon, or driveway along 
the ocean and not many blocks away 
from Miramar Hotel, and band-stand, just 
at the entrance to the harbor. Habana's 
port is a very busy and important one, 
merchant vessels, passenger and freight 
steamers of all kinds entering and leav- 
ing. We could see from our balconies 
the ships arriving and departing, and I 
remember how keenly we watched to see 
the entrance of the steamers coming from 
Vera Cruz, and more so if relatives or 
friends were coming. One could almost 
distinguish with telescopes from our 
balconies the people we knew on board, 
as they passed our house, although at 
quite a distance. 

The sunsets are wonderful, reflecting 



IN HABANA 121 

the many colors on the sea waves, and 
when the sea was very rough or the tide 
high, the waves would splash all over the 
Malecon, and even on our balconies we 
could feel the salt water. A few times 
that drive and houses along it have been 
inundated during a cyclone or very high 
tide. We never witnessed a very severe 
one but nevertheless we saw a very heavy 
wind-storm. The waves were wonderful 
to see, rising very high and splashing in 
all directions, and at the Morro Castle, 
just at the entrance to the harbor, the 
waves would reach the tower. The 
Malecon is also a very lively place in the 
afternoons, especially on Sundays and 
during Carnival, as it is part of the 
principal drive for the numerous auto- 
mobiles and carriages. All the balconies 
of the houses along there are also filled 
with the residents and their friends. 

During the winter months Habana is 
filled with tourists, mostly coming from 
the United States, and at times they even 



122 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

find it difficult to get good accommoda- 
tions at the hotels, so of course the city 
is even livelier at that time of the year. 
In summer many of the Cuban families 
go to spend a few months in the United 
States; it was during that period that 
we also made our trips to Mexico and 
the States, as Habana is an ideal spot for 
a winter resort for those who do not like 
the cold weather. 

We were constantly meeting and see- 
ing Mexican friends and acquaintances, 
who passed by that port. We generally 
went to meet them and enjoyed taking 
them around sight-seeing. The large 
steamers at that time did not anchor at 
the piers, but at a short distance inside 
the harbor or bay. Whenever we went 
to meet or leave our friends, we would go 
to the steamer in a steam-launch, as every 
one does. The ships generally arrive 
very early in the morning, and they are 
soon surrounded by numerous little boats 
and launches. 



CHAPTER XIX 

THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 

Feom Habana, we went to Mexico by 
steamer to Vera Cruz, and then by that 
interesting and beautiful road by rail to 
the capital, to witness the celebration of 
the Mexican Centennial in 1910. We re- 
mained about three months at Mexico 
City, most pleasant and memorable ones 
for us ; and especially for me those 
months were very enjoyable, because I 
was then in my teens and allowed to go 
to all parties, even the most ceremonious 
ones. 

The whole month of September was de- 
voted to the celebration of Mexico's cen- 
tennial. On the sixteenth of that month 
was the anniversary of one hundred 
123 



124 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIC0 

years of independence, as a free and pros- 
perous Republic. 

My father, who was Mexican Minister 
to Cuba at that time, was also named to 
assist with the Mexican delegation, and 
my mother and I were asked to attend 
to the wives and daughters of the foreign 
delegates. Many of the ladies of Mexico 
City's leading families were designated to 
assist in entertaining these ladies, several 
being assigned to each delegation. 

Every country in the world sent dele- 
gates, sometimes consisting of several 
members and secretaries, also some na- 
tions sent a war-ship to a Mexican port, 
the marines landing and going to the 
capital to be guests of Mexico and take 
part in the parades. The United States 
sent a numerous delegation of distin- 
guished men, who took their wives. 
Among the American delegates were 
Senator Overman, Representative and 
Mrs. James L. Slayden, Representative 
and Mrs. Fairchild, Mr. Curtis Guild, 



THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 125 

who was afterwards American Ambassa- 
dor to Russia and died recently, and Mr. 
James W. Gerard, later Ambassador to 
Germany, and Mrs. Gerard. I had the 
honor at a large banquet to be next to Mr. 
Gerard at the dinner-table, and have his 
signature on my menu, as I then asked 
those around me to sign their names. I 
have quite a collection of menus, and 
programmes of nearly all the dinners, 
luncheons, and dances I have attended, 
also many clippings that speak of those 
celebrations, and of my family and my- 
self, as souvenirs of years gone by. 

All the foreign guests were hospitably 
received by the government and some of 
the best homes in Mexico City were 
placed at their disposal, where they lived 
in comfort and luxury, everything being 
provided for them by the Mexican gov- 
ernment. 

Mrs. Diaz, wife of the President, gave 
a beautiful garden party at Chapultepec 
castle, which was profusely decorated and 



126 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

illuminated for that occasion. A plat- 
form had been erected in one of the halls, 
where over fifty young ladies and young 
men of Mexico's 61ite gave a concert, 
the instruments used being mandolins, 
guitars, and harps. Then others danced 
dressed in Indian costumes of bright 
colors and rich materials the typical 
dances, as the "Jarabe," and also in 
Spanish costumes the *' Jota " and " Sevil- 
lanas." Afterwards the military band 
played, and we all danced until a late 
hour and also had a very delicious supper. 
At the National Palace a grand ball 
was given, the largest I have ever 
attended. The principal interior court- 
yard was transformed into a superb and 
immense ball-room, which must have 
cost a very high sum, as a complete floor 
and a ceiling supported by iron columns 
had to be constructed. The floor was 
covered with canvas and the large pillars, 
stone and iron ones, with winding dra- 
peries, and there were thousands of 



THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 127 

electric lights on the ceiling, walls, 
pillars, and everywhere. 

The rooms opening into that court- 
yard on the first floor were furnished in 
the styles of Louis XIV and Louis XV, 
and there the guests could rest between 
dances. Over ten thousand persons 
attended this beautiful ball. The foreign 
and Mexican delegates, diplomats, and 
officers of war and navy wore uniforms, 
adding to the brilliancy of that wonder- 
ful scene. At one end there was an 
elevated platform for the orchestra of 
about one hundred and fifty musicians. 
I shall never forget that ball and how 
very much I danced and enjoyed myself. 
We returned home with my parents 
about four o'clock, and still it was going 
on. I believe it ended near six or seven 
in the morning. Other balls and recep- 
tions were given, one at the Municipal 
Palace and another at the Department 
of Foreign Relations. Those although 
not as large were also very grand and at- 



128 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 

tractive. Of course it was easier for 
my partners to find me at those affairs, 
as the ball-rooms were smaller and there 
were fewer people. 

Through the whole month of Septem- 
ber during the celebrations, all the prin- 
cipal business streets were decorated and 
illuminated artistically and elaborately, 
as well as all the public buildings, 
Cathedral, many stores, etc. At night 
those streets were crowded, and concerts 
and moving pictures in the open air and 
at the parks were given free for the 
public. We were staying at the Hotel 
Iturbide, the one I described in one of 
the former chapters, and where we usually 
stayed whenever we visited Mexico City 
for a short time. The location of that 
hotel on San Francisco Street, the prin- 
cipal thoroughfare for the crowds, and 
parades, made it most enjoyable for us, 
as we could see from our balconies all the 
excitement and interesting scenes, al- 
though most of the parades we witnessed 



THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 129 

from the National Palace balconies, all 
the officials and foreign guests being 
invited there on those occasions. The 
President always reviewed the parades 
from one of those balconies. 

The most picturesque and typical 
parade was a historical one, representing 
the Spanish conqueror Herndn Cort6s 
and party, as well as Montezuma, the 
Aztec Emperor, surrounded by his 
courtiers and countrymen following him. 
Thousands of Indians were brought from 
all over the country to take part, and 
each wore the typical Indian costume of 
those days, most elaborate in bright 
colors, some wearing feathers in their 
heads and carrying banners and their 
antique weapons. The women wore also 
the typical costume of bright colors and 
many strings of beads in all colors 
around their necks. As that parade 
reached the National Palace they stopped 
before the President's balcony, and began 
to perform and represent portions of the 



130 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

historical episodes during tiie conquest 
of Mexico. It was indeed a beautiful, 
interesting, and unique sight. 

Another elaborate festivity given was 
a garden party at the Automobile Club, a 
fashionable one and located at Chapul- 
tepec near the lake. The Club, and sur- 
rounding grounds were ornamented, and 
illuminated with hundreds of electric 
lights among the trees, bushes, and 
plants, and here and there tents were 
placed, having inside tables with all 
good things to eat for the invited 
guests, who ran into the thousands. The 
lake looked like fairy-land, and wonder- 
ful fireworks, showing the burning of 
castles, figures and a bombardment and 
destruction of two battle-ships on this 
lake were enacted, illuminating the sky 
and surroundings as if all were in a blaze 
and burning up. The driveways, roads, 
and lawns near the Automobile Club 
were thronged by the multitudes of non- 
invited guests, rich and poor, young and 



TEE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 131 

old. It took us a very long time to 
reach the Club, as so many people had 
been invited, and although excellent 
arrangements had been made for auto- 
mobiles and carriages to follow each 
other by specified roads, policemen being 
stationed at various points to indicate the 
way, it seemed slow and never-ending, 
but after having witnessed that lovely 
scene, it was worth while going through 
that apparently endless route. 

President Porfirio Diaz entertained at 
two large banquets in honor of all the 
foreign delegates. On the night that the 
last one was given, all the invited guests 
went to a theatrical performance given in 
their honor at one of the leading theatres. 
The entire balcony of the theatre was 
turned into one continuous box, where 
the most prominent delegates were seated. 
They wore their brilliant uniforms and 
the ladies were in full evening dress. 
All this was an added attraction, as 
seldom so many different uniforms, of all 



132 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

nations, have been seen at a theatrical 
performance. The theatre was splendidly 
decorated with flags of all countries and 
flowers, and brighty illuminated. 




Montezuma on His Throne. 
Scene from Historical Parade during Mexican Centennial, 3910. 




Aztec Warriors. 
Another striking feature of the Historical Parade. 



CHAPTER XX 

MEXICAN HOME LIFE. RETURN TO 
WASHINGTON 

After the Mexican Centennial we all 
went back to Habana, as my father re- 
turned there to his post. Soon after our 
arrival my father was commissioned to 
thank the Cuban government for having 
sent a delegation to our Centennial cele- 
brations. The Secretary of State gave in 
his honor a large and beautiful banquet, 
about one hundred and fifty persons at- 
tending, officials, diplomats and Cuban 
society, so in return my father gave an- 
other banquet at Miramar Hotel to thank 
the government for their courtesy. The 
large dining-room was decorated with 
flags of Cuba and Mexico and colors of 
both countries, and the table was pro- 
fusely ornamented with flowers in our 
133 



134 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

colors, green, white and red, and at each 
place a menu with the Cuban and Mexi- 
can flags painted in one corner. After 
,dinner we went in to the gardens and had 
coflee at small tables, the orchestra play- 
ing patriotic airs of both countries, and 
at the same time there were moving pic- 
tures, as it was usual to have attractive 
films during dinner parties or refresh- 
ments served to the numerous persons 
who often go to that attractive garden. 
That evening they showed some interest- 
ing views of Mexico and a few of the 
Centennial celebrations, which we had 
so recently personally witnessed. 

Perhaps before terminating this little 
book, it would be proper for me to say 
something about Mexican home life, such 
as I remember when I was a little girl in 
my country. Children there were very 
respectful and affectionate to their par- 
ents ; the family ties were very close, and 
the young people seemed to love their 



MEXICAN HOME LIFE 135 

homes. The respect shown by the young 
to their parents continued even when 
more advanced in years, and it was a 
usual thing to see men and women kiss 
the hands of their father or mother, when 
entering a room, and always embracing 
and kissing them when retiring at night. 

Mexican children were not very inde- 
pendent, pushing, or self-reliant but at 
the same time they were affectionate, 
considerate, and obliging. From their 
earliest years they showed a love of home 
and of home life that is commendable. 
Rarely would one hear of Mexican chil- 
dren running away from home or leav- 
ing their parents to seek a fortune, ad- 
venture, or position away from them. 

Of course girls in Mexico devote most 
of their time to household duties and aid 
their mothers in the discharge of such 
duties, and although they went to school 
or studied at home, they did not learn 
things that would fit them for an active 
or independent career, but instead out- 



136 WHEN I WAS A OIRL IN MEXICO 

side of the usual studies, they took piano, 
singing, and painting lessons and also 
learned sewing, embroidery and other 
womanly accomplishments. A few that 
wished to support themselves or aid at 
home became teachers, but it is only 
lately that any have studied to become 
clerks or stenographers. 

As during my younger days servants 
were plentiful and cheap, few girls had to 
devote their time to household drudgery, 
such as cooking, washing, or scrubbing. 

There is a great deal of musical taste 
in Mexico and children there love piano- 
playing and singing, and girls, especially, 
begin to study the piano and other in- 
struments when very small, and often be- 
come very good musicians. In my time 
girls used to see and visit each other quite 
often and become good and fast friends, 
but they seldom formed societies or clubs, 
as they do in the United States, but I 
hear that they do so now in my country, 
too. 



MEXICAN HOME LIFE 137 

As is well known, girls in Mexico, and 
in nearly every Latin- American country, 
are not allowed to go out alone with 
young men, the custom being that their 
parents or a chaperone or one of their 
brothers should also go, but as customs 
are being modernized all over the world, 
at present there is more liberty ; you often 
see a group of girls and young men go 
out together, without a chaperone. 

Young people are very fond of danc- 
ing, and the dances that become popular 
in Europe and the United States very 
soon find their way to Mexico, and so I 
hear that now the fox-trot and one-step 
are as popular in my country as here, 
though of course the last time I was in 
Mexico the waltz and two-step were then 
the rage. I always have preferred the 
old-fashioned waltz, although I must say 
that dancing is one of my weaknesses, so 
I enjoy almost any dance. 

There are a great variety of sweetmeats 
in Mexico, specialties of the country, and 



138 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 

of course the children are very fond of 
them, like young people in this country. 
Our typical cooking is also very good 
and very different from American cook- 
ing ; the " enchiladas/' " tamales," and 
" tortillas " are decidedly popular there 
and even foreigners likewise become fond 
of such spicy dishes. I notice that now 
many like them in the United States and 
I know of several restaurants where Mexi- 
can cooking is served. 

Men smoke a good deal, the Mexican 
tobacco being considered very good. The 
boys begin to smoke at an early age, but 
it is not practised by the girls or ladies, 
as many are apt to suppose. Some old 
ladies used to smoke but no young girl or 
lady of refinement would be addicted to 
this habit. 

The women and children dress very 
stylishly, following the fashions that 
come from Europe, principally Paris, and 
also many from the United States, but 
some of the middle classes wear no hats 



MEXICAN HOME LIFE 139 

but shawls or ** rebozos." The Indian 
woman or girl wear their hair in braids 
down their backs and also use the " re- 
bozo " (a long narrow shawl with fringe 
at both ends) ; those *^ rebozos " are gen- 
erally in dark colors, some in stripes, and 
their best is usually made of silk. 

After staying a few months in Habana 
we finally came again to Washington to 
reside in the United States, a country 
that I admire so much and in whose 
people I feel such great interest. How- 
ever, those feelings can never diminish 
the love I have for my native country, 
the land where my parents were born, 
my beloved and dear Mexico. 



The End 



CHRISTMAS EI LEGEND AND STORTt 

A Book for Boys and Girls 

Compaed by ELVA S. SMITH 

Cataloguer of Children's Books, Carnegie Library, Pittsburgh, 

and AUCE I. HAZELTINE 

Supervisor of ChUdren's Work, St. Louis Public Library 

Illustrated from Famous Paintings Net, $i .50 ; Postpaid, $1 .70 

TN their experience in providing reading for 
■'■ children, these trained and efficient li- 
brarians saw the need of a book that should 
group the best of real literature regarding 
Christmas. With wide research and great 
pains they have gathered the noblest, grand- 
est, sweetest, and most reverent of all that 
eminent writers in varying lands and in 
different times have told us in prose and 
verse of the origin and sentiment of this 
"gracious time." The style and decoration 
of the book are in keeping with its contents. 

oiChxys\xa.z.%r— The Churchman. ^„'„t:„<rc 

breathes from every page. The \lj?!^""i;°r^^_ attractive text."- Columbus 
paintings, are an invaiuable embellishment of the attractive lexi. 

out the year."— The Continmt. 

For Bale by all bookBellers. or sent postpaid on receipt 
of price l>y the pisblifiliers 

Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. Boston 





YULE-TIDE IN MANY LANDS 

By MARY P. PRINGLE and CLARA A. URANN 

Fully illustrated and decorated 
12mo Cloth Price, $1.25 Net 

'T^HE varying forms of Christmas ob- 
•'• servance at different times and in 
different lands are entertainingly shown 
by one trained in choosing and present- 
ing the best to younger readers. The 
symbolism, good cheer, and sentiment 
of the grandest of holidays are shown 
as they appeal in similar fashion to those 
whose lives seem so widely diverse. The 
first chapter tells of the Yule-Tide of the 
Ancients, and the eight succeeding chapters deal respectively 
with the observance of Christmas and New Year's, making 
«ip the time of " Yule," or the turning of the sun, in England, 
Germany, Scandinavia, Russia, France, Italy, Spain, and 
America. The space devoted to each country has at leas 
one good illustration. 

*'The descriptions as presented in this well-prepared volume make 
interesting reading for all who love to come in loving contact with others 
in their high and pure Qxi^oyTaQnti^*^-— Her aid- Presbyter, Cincinnaii. 

"The way Yule-Tide was and is celebrated is told in a simple and 
instructive way, and the narrative is enriched by appropriate poems and 
excellent illustrations." — Cleveland Plain Dealer. 

*'It is written for young people and is bound to interest them for the 
i;ubiect is a universal one." — American Church Sunday School Magazine. 

Por sale by all booksellers or seat postpaid on receipt 
of price by tbe publishers 

Lothrop, Lee 6i Shepard Co. Boston 



TOP~OF-THE-WORLD STORIES 

Translated from the Scandinarian Language* 

By EMILIE POULSSON and LAURA POULSSON 

Illustrated in two colors by Florence Liley Young 
Price, Net, $1.25 



^a^^i 




T 



HESE stories of magic and adven- 
ture come from the countries at 
the "top of the world," and will 
transport thither in fancy the children 
who read this unusual book. They 
tell of Lapps and reindeer (even a 
golden-homed reindeer ! ) , of prince 
and herd-boy, of knights and wolves 
and trolls, of a boy who could be 
hungry and merry at the same time — 
of all these and more besides ! Miss Poulsson's numerous 
and long visits to Norway, her father's land, and the fact that 
she is an experienced writer for children are doubtless the 
reasons why her translations are sympathetic and skilful, and 
yet entirely adapted to give wholesome pleasure to the young 
public that she knows so well. 

"In these stories are the elements of wonder and magic and adventure 
that furnish the thrill so much appreciated by boys and girls ten or twelve 
years of age. An aristocratic book — one that every young person will be 
perpetually proud of . " — Lookout^ Cincinnati^ O. 

"In this book the children are transported to the land they iove best, 
the land of magic, of the fairies and all kinds of wonderful happenings. 
It is one of the best fairy story books ever published." — Argics- Leader^ 
Siottx Falls, S. D. 

For sale by all booksellers or seat postpaid oa receipt 
of price by the publishers 

Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. Boston 



HOHE ENTERTAININQ 

What to Do, and How to Do It 

Sdited by WILLIAH E. CHENERY 
92ano Cloth Price,> Net, $.73 Postpaid, $.SB 




Home 
Enter- 
taining 



i AMUSEMENTS 
I FOR EVERY ONE 

WILLIAM E CHEN£RV 



'ipHIS Look is the product of years of stuc47] 
and the practical trying~out ot every con-' 
ceivable form of indoor entertainment. All the 
gc^mes, tricks, puzzles, and rainy-day and social- 
evenixig diversions have been practised by the 
editor; many are original with him, and many 
tha* are of course not original have been graatly 
improved by his intelligence. All are told in the 
plainest possible way, and with excellent taste. 
The book is well arranged and finely printed. At 
a low price it places within the reach of all the 
very best of bright and jolly means of making 

heme what it ought to be — ^the best piace for a good timj by those of ail 

ages. 

•• The book is brig^'ht ar i up to date, full of cheer and sunshine. A good 
holiday hook.''*— 'Relig'iou^ x . Isscope^ Dayton, Ohio, 

*' For those who want new games for Ihe home this book supplies the very best 
—good, clean, hearty gaaaes, full of fun and the spirit of taught^'*. "■—iV. T, Times, 

*'A5tog'ether the book is a perfect treasure-house for the young people's rainy 
day or social evening." — New bedjord Standards 

*• The arrangement is excellent and the instructions so simple that a ctiild may 
follow them. A book like this is just the thing for social evenings.'*— CAr«/«a» 
Endeavor World. 

" A book giving the best, cleanest and brightest games and tricks for homo 
entertaining," — Syracuse Herald, 

*'The Dook is clearly written and should prove of valne to every young majt 
who aspires to be the life of the party.**— ^a/*«»/o/# 5«»» 

••Only good, bright, cieajs games and tricks appeal to Mr. C^isnery, and h, 
iias told in we simplest as A JDOSt comprehensive manner bow to get up * amuse 
ments tor &i&ef ooe,* **'—J^vi/ord CouruxL 

I M ^- , - I =i ^-~^. . — a i-i— ■— M»ig- 

PlSfsalB WsXl hQiskseileim ar seat mi wmipi oigioatp^ 
psiG-$ Iby the pubhsbers 

LOTHROP. LEE &_ SHEPARS CO,. BOSIOK 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




